LEE ALEXANDER MCQUEEN: REVERIE, MYTH, MUSE

谢梦荻

2022-08-17 10:52:00

已关注

"Lee Alexander McQueen: Mind, Mythos, Muse" opens recently at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art. As one of the most important contributors to the fashion industry, Lee Alexander McQueen is both a master of concept and a master of technology. Through four thematic sections: Myth, Fashion Narrative, Technology and Innovation, Evolution and Existence, the exhibition revisits and defines the classic designs that define Alexander McQueen's career.


Fashion Artistic Narrative

The connection between fashion and art has always attracted attention because of the blurred boundaries between them, and because fashion often relies on numerous art forms to help it establish imagery and identity associations.


Alexander McQueen is best at this stylish expression. His artistic narrative originated in Jack the Ripper Stalks his Victims, his 1992 graduate work at Central Saint Martins, and has been a lengthy telling ever since. McQueen mixed real human hair into the fabric of this graduation project, seemingly retelling a Victorian tale of keeping hair as a token or selling it as a locket to pass on to lovers. McQueen later trademarked his hair embedded in plexiglass, and in the first few collections it featured McQueen's own hair. These materials, which incorporate his emotional cues, seem to be whispering his inner thoughts.

Much of McQueen's "inspirations" come from his ancestors and Scottish history. For example, the controversial "The Highland Rape" series released in 1995 made people aware of the cruelty and harm brought about by war through the "tear" cutting design with great visual tension. Works from this series are also included in the exhibition.


Embodying this artistic narrative, there is also a series of works in March 1996.
"Dante" explores McQueen's temperament and reverie borrowed from 19th-century femme fatales, inspired by "Inferno" in Italian poet Dante's long poem "Divina Commedia." The female figures created by the work are both charming and terrifying. This collection pushes the use of Victorian Gothic clothing to the extreme.
McQueen is adept at drawing inspiration from the past and blending it into tailoring with a fresh look, presenting it in a contemporary context. The 2006 autumn and winter release of the extremely poetic series is based on the theme of "Widows of Culloden" (Widows of Culloden), expressing the indictment of the exclusion of aliens in the process of civilization. The show reproduced the graceful Scottish styles, such as feather decoration, Scottish plaid, Victorian lace, etc. These elements have been reorganized and translated by McQueen, providing the audience with unlimited artistic associations.

Fascinating Concepts and Technologies

In Alexander McQueen's work, concept and technology complement each other to form a unique visual experience that transcends time, place, medium and craftsmanship. His mastery of ready-to-wear and womenswear can be traced back to the age of 16, when McQueen started his apprenticeship on London's Savile Row. This experience gave McQueen a deep accumulation in tailoring, proportions, colors, etc., which also laid the foundation for breakthroughs and innovations for McQueen's future fashion.


In the spring/summer 2001 series "Voss", he put his attention and love of life into it. The collection presents base skirts made from oyster shells, with outer skirts made from 19th-century Japanese gauze. Because the screen yarn is very fragile and cannot be made by machine, almost all the processes are completed by McQueen alone. The show also made McQueen's career legend. The entire show is also an installation art inspired by American photographer Joel-Peter Witkin's work "The Nursing Home", these installations revolve around 52 otherworldly cut shapes, feathers, Materials full of imagery, such as silk, bird specimens, and medical glass slides, are combined through superb craftsmanship.


The 2009 autumn and winter "The Horn of Plenty" series is also a representative of McQueen's concept and technology. In this series, McQueen extracted the classic designs of many designers and presented them with his own iconic designs. For example, by extracting and imitating Dior's "New Look" houndstooth and silhouette cutting, reinterpreting the classics in their own way, and transforming the houndstooth into a bird pattern in the exquisite tailoring skills, making this series of works in retrospect. McQueen's Spring/Summer 1995 "The Birds" pattern, while injecting new vitality, created a very unique artistic experience through technical assistance concepts.
Among other things, the exhibition features headwear commissioned by Los Angeles-based artist and designer Michael Schmidt, as well as muses Isabella Blow and Annabelle Neilson's clothing is a work of art where McQueen's virtuosity meets brilliant concept.

Create Your Own Myth

"Plato's Atlantis" (Plato's Atlantis), as the last series of Alexander McQueen's career, is undoubtedly not a classic. The series introduces the theme of environmental protection, draws inspiration from Darwin's theory of evolution and modern environmental protection concepts, and shows the public a terrifying future world. McQueen opened up his imagination in the final series: "Humans come from the sea, and eventually they will return to the sea." He uses digital printing to present the images in his mind, and the snake or fish scales are repeatedly printed to form unique patterns, mysterious and unique, combined with experimental tailoring and silhouettes to outline the reverie of a future creature.


During his 18-year career, McQueen has completed 42 fashion shows. He gave the wearer pieces of mythical armor, full of power. There is no doubt that McQueen created a myth of immortality, and it has attracted future generations to revisit and read it again and again.


Article Source:艺术与设计

版权声明:【除原创作品外,本平台所使用的文章、图片、视频及音乐属于原权利人所有,因客观原因,或会存在不当使用的情况,如,部分文章或文章部分引用内容未能及时与原作者取得联系,或作者名称及原始出处标注错误等情况,非恶意侵犯原权利人相关权益,敬请相关权利人谅解并与我们联系及时处理,共同维护良好的网络创作环境,联系邮箱:603971995@qq.com】

0条评论

Extraordinary reading, Chinese beautiful books in Berlin

Exhibition siteWith nearly half a million books pu
赵乐 0评论 2023-05-08

The world of candy colors, makes your life more colorful

Candy ColorsWorldIn this issue, we have selected s
艺术与设计 0评论 2023-05-05

Quentin, preparing to make his "last" movie, and his 20 favorite movies

According to reports, Quentin is already preparing
艺术与设计 0评论 2023-05-04

Paulo Monteiro: color as material

Paulo MonteiroBorn in 1961 in São Paulo, Brazil. M
艺术与设计 0评论 2023-05-03

Kong Jinglu: Jewelry about "writing"

Recently, the winners of the 2023 British Goldsmit
吴仕奇 0评论 2023-05-02

Labor is the most glorious: See the working people in paintings

Shaanxi Provincial Culture Bureau Art Creation Gro
艺术与设计 0评论 2023-05-01

Madrid Design Festival: a natural way to be a leader

Spain's design industry is enjoying a boom. Last y
甄健恒 0评论 2023-04-28

Cape Town's Urban Public Space: Creative Design for Openness and Inclusion

Cape TownAs Africa's first UNESCO-designated City
张琳 0评论 2023-04-27

Exploring the Power of Design in Rural Revitalization

In the vast Chinese land, the complex and diverse
邹羽涵、张弛 0评论 2023-04-26

Manal Al Dwayne: Constructing your own story with history

The solo exhibition "Their Love Is Like all Loves,
陈颖 0评论 2023-04-25

2023 Milan Design Week|Poliform: The Armani of furniture

Mr. Giovanni Anzani, President of PoliformIn the p
本刊编辑部 0评论 2023-04-24

2023 Milan Design Week|Interview with Luciano Garinberti, Director of ADI Design Museum

During Milan Design Week, in addition to several i
本刊编辑部 0评论 2023-04-21

Milan Design Week 2023|Furniture Fair Milan with Milan Polytechnic Professor

Milan Design Week 2023 will take place from April
本刊编辑部 0评论 2023-04-21

61 years old Milan exhibition, the fire is in full swing

As Milan Design Week 2023 is about to begin, let's
艺术与设计 0评论 2023-04-20

Respecting the traces of time

Can bordoy garden hotel leisure poolThe Can bordoy
赵沅沣 0评论 2023-04-19

艺术与设计APP

  • 最新最热
    行业资讯
  • 最新最热
    行业资讯
  • 最新最热
    行业资讯