Each era has its own unique fashion design language. The Paris Museum of Decorative Arts recently held a large-scale exhibition, "Ann é es 80 - Mode, design et graphics en France". From the election of Fran ç ois Mitterrand as President of France in 1981 to the collapse of the Berlin Wall in 1989 as the end, a review of French fashion Important changes in the field of art and design and legendary figures in the industry who wrote this history.
The exhibition presented the French fashion, design, advertising and music industry in the 1980s to the audience through more than 700 exhibits. The exhibition was designed by the designer Adrien Rovero. The exhibits include furniture, fashion posters, advertising films, photography, record covers and magazines in the 1980s, highlighting three important themes reflecting this period: the new political and cultural era The exhibition will last from October 13 of this year to April 16 of next year.
Omni directional visual communication of media and advertising
Media, advertising and audio-visual culture experienced unprecedented growth during this period, opening a new era of visual communication. Jacques S é gu é la, a French advertising master, has planned more than 20 presidential election campaigns. In 1981, the poster he created for Fran ç ois Mitterrand with the slogan "The Power of Peace" has become a classic design of the presidential election, marking the beginning of advertising's all-round influence in social life.
Jean Paul Goude was an influential "image creator" during this period. His creativity made commercial advertising another art. The Paris Museum of Decorative Arts once held a personal retrospective exhibition for him. In 1989, Jean Paul Goodall was invited to serve as the general director of the parade celebration commemorating the 200th anniversary of the French Revolution. In this grand carnival, rich performances and music, performances and lights are integrated. The steam locomotive moved slowly along the Champs Elysees, and the models in the rotating waltz skirts danced. In the exhibition, Goodall's manuscripts for the carnival were displayed. This gorgeous parade impressed the French deeply, and also made Goodall's art career reach its peak.
In this period, the multiplication of TV channels led to the arrival of the golden age of advertising films. She tienne Robial successively designed the LOGO of TV channels for Canal and M6. A number of iconic creative advertising directors have emerged, such as Jean Paul Goode, Etienne Chatiliez, Jean Baptiste Mondino, etc. Mondino, a prolific commercial photographer and advertising director, works for many fashion magazines, produces advertisements for fashion companies, and produces music videos for artists. His music videos for Summer Boys won various awards in 1985, and then music videos and music videos customized for stars like Madonna also flourished. In this period, Jack Lang, the former French Minister of Culture, made a decision for the French who love music: to hold a music festival for the whole people on June 21 every year, the day when summer begins. Since 1981, all professional andnon-professionalmusicians or groups will take to the streets on June 21 to immerse the city in the beautiful melody. In this exhibition, a music festival poster designed by the famous poster designer Michel Bouvet in 1987 was displayed. Colorful bubbles filled the picture, and each one was filled with the same instrument. Today, the Music Festival has become one of the most popular festivals in France.
In the field of advertising and graphic design, the 1980s marked the beginning of global visual communication. Advertising companies are growing; Graphic designer studios have emerged one after another; In addition to advertising, the image design level of public welfare undertakings has also been improved; The written media is changing; Investment in the name of "art" takes place in all aspects of fashion and design
Domain. The exhibits of the exhibition involve fashion magazines of this period. Taking Le Palace, a fashion magazine in 1982, as an example, the contents of the exhibition include interviews with celebrities and literary and artistic figures at that time. The photos were taken by Mondino, a popular photographer, and reported Yves Saint Laurent fashion show, as well as celebrities in the performing arts industry who lingered in Le Palace, a famous nightclub.
Le Palace is one of the most famous clubs of nightlife culture in Paris in the 1980s. It has an ancient theater structure, and its interior is dazzling. Another equally famous club is Les Bains Douches, which was founded in 1978. Its name means bathroom, because it was originally the site of the bathroom in the 19th century. Gerard Garurst created interior decoration for Le Palace, Philippe Starck designed interior decoration for Les Bains Douches, and Polanski's film Crazy released in 1988 was set here. The lively dance club gathered French celebrities and creative people from all walks of life at that time. It was open to ordinary people. Night owls from all over the country danced with the new wave, rock and hip hop music here. You may meet anyone here.
The aesthetic revolution of design
President Fran ç ois Mitterrand's ambitious Grands Projects were described as "landmark construction projects that have changed the city skyline in 20 years". The project includes the pyramid of the Louvre, the Musee d'Orsay, the Villette Park, the Arab World Institute, the Bastille Opera House, La Defense and the new campus of the French National Library. All these buildings are praised by the public as landmarks of Paris today. Grapus is responsible for the design of Villette Park and the Louvre, while Jean Widmer is responsible for the design of the Orsay Museum. Under Mitterrand's policy, the art and culture center has extended to all regions of France.
In the 80's of the 20th century, when art and culture flourished, all the creators involved mixed different aesthetics. Modernist design with high-tech elements complemented Baroque style and classicism. Sponsored by the Ministry of Industry of France, VIA was established in 1979. Since 1981, the Association has helped to create highly original works every year, and provided substantial financial support for works of contemporary design significance, so that young people have the opportunity to realize their design dreams. Unlike the past few decades, what stands out is not institutions or trends, but outstanding individuals. It witnessed the birth of a new generation of designers. Olivier Gagn è re, Elizabeth Garouste, Mattia Bonetti, Philip Stark, Martin Szekely... Since the era of Charles de Gaulle, All the new French presidents will make some changes to the decoration style of their presidential residence, the Elysee Palace (l'e lys é e), according to their own preferences. In order to promote modern furniture, then French President Mitterrand convened five interior designers to decorate Elysee's private apartment. The living room furniture of French First Lady Danielle Mitterrand was designed by Philip Stark, one of them. The artist Gérard Garouste created murals for the room.
In the crazy age of the alternation of the old and the new, postmodernism opened up all the possibilities of art. At the core of the 1980s, furniture was no longer just a mission of "form and function", but became "meaning, form and function". Designers' conception of modeling is close to artistic creation, and they pay attention to practical functions and aesthetic design objects. For example, Martin Shakili's famous work "Pi (Pi Bench)", which made a great success in the design field at the age of 26, boldly combines straight lines, oblique lines and arcs to create a balanced and harmonious modeling.
In 1987, French fashion designer Christian Lacroix hired Elizabeth Garuster and Mattia Bonetti to design his new fashion salon. Before that, the design of high-end customized fashion houses followed a certain routine. Theinterior color is basically pearl grey and pure white. Elizabeth Garurst and Mattia Bonetti abandoned the established taste of theupper-classsociety and designed bold decorations in color and shape. One of the orange chairs was displayed in this exhibition.
Free and enthusiastic fashion carnival
Inthe 1980s, the silhouette of clothing broke away from the old shackles, fashion became materialistic, emphasizing appearance. Paris once again became the center of world fashion, gathering a group of new designers from different backgrounds, and some fashion designers were promoted to "superstars". Jean Paul Gaultier or Thierry Mugler were inspired by the retro style of the 1930s. Since 1976, Thierry Mugler has been the first to predict the trend ten years later, which is characterized by "the freedom of color, expression and abundance". Together with Claude Montana, he created a classic image of the 1980s as a "strong woman with exaggerated square shoulders". Azzedine Ala ïa and Marc Audibet shape the model's sports figure in their works, and show the exquisite figure curve belonging to women by creatively "exposing the skin". In contrast, Japanese fashion represented by Issey Miyake is asymmetric. The innovation of the "lifetime pleat" technique aims to make fashion express a certain architectural structure, and the key words "pleat, fragmentary and black" create a new fashion style.Chuan Jiu Baoling and Martin Margiela of Comme des Gar çons are also trying to develop another style of deconstruction.
The wardrobe of Parisians has also become more and more popular. The high-end customized fashion symbolized by Saint Laurent and Givenchy has found its customers. At the same time, Naf Naf, Kooka ï or Benetton are flooding the city with friendly prices. The fashion of various ready to wear and even sportswear is also deeply affecting the whole society, and clothing has become the expression of personalized language. Fashion photography also developed vigorously by taking this opportunity. Pierre&Gilles, a well-known photography group, described the sweet portraits of this era on the border between art history and popular culture. Their works established a connection between pop idols and aristocratic portraits. The pictures are full of dreamy and gorgeous atmosphere. The artists believe that the images they created integrate reality, daily life, dreams and fantasies.
In the 1980s, when various styles collided with each other, French cultural undertakings flourished. Design and fashion overturned the existing rules and presented the appearance of a hundred flowers in bloom. By looking back on this period of history, the Paris Museum of Decorative Arts pays tribute to the history of more than 30 years ago. This is an exciting exhibition, which does not stop at nostalgia, but also will continue to trigger thinking in the future.
Article Source:艺术与设计
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