When we look back on the Paris Fashion Week in spring and summer 2023, these new series, inspired and created by different ages, give us a feeling of going through time and space. From SAINT LAURENT tracing the source of the classic, shaping the other side of women's "sexy", to BALMAIN advocating the classic, reflecting on the grand proposition of fashion and sustainability, to COPERNI honoring the classic, creating another possibility of clothing. The Paris Fashion Week in spring and summer 2023 has been inspired by many years, showing the changing process of avant-garde design from "controversy", "silence" to "pursuit".

Flowing Fashion History
Since Anthony Vaccarello took over as the creative director of SAINT LAURENT, it took six years to sublimate the image of SAINT LAURENT from noun to adjective, making the brand a symbol of "sexy". Looking back at the series of works of Anthony Vacarello in recent seasons, it is like a flowing fashion history. In this "book", he tells the classic design of Yves Saint Laurent.

SAINT LAURENT 2023

This season, Anthony Vacarello will be cold, power, sexy, elegant style, coexist in the same series. It reproduces the fashion imprint of Yves Saint Laurent and endows it with an indelible sense of modernity. In the 1960s, Yves Saint Laurent and the sculptor Claude Lalanne jointly created two Capuche Dress, which became as famous as Mondrian Dress and became one of the classic symbols of the fashion house. The cape type elegant tulle skirt is connected with the metal waist seal, and the strong contrast between soft and hard, reinterprets the close relationship between body and clothing, breaking the inherent boundaries of fashion. This season, Anthony Vacarello traces back to this classic design. In the core shape of the "pointy hood", it is presented in a modern outline, with a slender, neat and flowing sense of pendency, combined with the design of delicate folds and hollow details, to explore the inner sexy of women.

SAINT LAURENT 2023

The wide shoulder coat with contemporary SAINT LAURENT style is an existence that cannot be ignored in the series. In the fashion context, the tall and wide shoulder lines often remind people of words such as "power", "nobility" and "momentum", which is a vivid representation of women's pursuit of power. This kind of dress began in the 1980s. Under the firm outline, Anthony Vacarello drew the curve of the female body unreservedly with the tubular wrap skirt. Looking at the whole, it still exudes a sense of alienation from strangers. It is another sexy, forceful and charming woman belonging to SAINT LAURENT. In terms of color application, it is completely different from the black tone of last season. AnthonyVacarellointroduced different levels of olive green, Burgundy red and brown, which are low-key but sharper.

The Reminder

BALMAIN 2023

In the 1980s and 1990s, a large number of fashion pioneers emerged, known as the "golden age of fashion". They use design to change the trend of global fashion, have a profound impact on visual arts and fashion culture, and also bring endless inspiration to today's designers. After cooperating with JEAN PAUL GAULTIER to launch the 2022 autumn and winter high-end customization series, Olivier Rousting, creative director of BALMAIN, seems to have awakened the memory of fashion culture in the 1980s and 1990s. From the reconstruction of religious prints, deconstruction and corset details, we can see Olivier Rustin's admiration for those times.

BALMAIN 2023

This season Olivier Rustin reflected on the grand proposition of fashion and sustainability, combining traditional weaving elements with sculptural shapes. Among them, the massive application of corset is a tribute to the classic work of Jean Paul Gaultier and Vivienne Westwood. In the 1980s and 1990s, the appearance of these two fashion designers gave the corset a second life. Vivian Westwood is the originator of underwear outerwear and the first designer to revive corsets in the 20th century. Until the 1990s, another talented designer Jean Paul Gaultier made a bolder creation of the traditional corset. The cone bra was like a sharp weapon, shaping women into aggressive soldiers and causing a sensation in the fashion world.

BALMAIN 2023

Olivier Rustin paid homage to the era when he dared to break through the shackles. Inspired by this, he broke the fixed pattern of corsets in a spiral form and became the highlight of this series. It also uses organic materials made of paper, wicker, wood and a large number of recycled fabrics to shape clothes into movable three-dimensional sculptures through traditional weaving elements. The "unfinished" raw neckline and skirt, as well as a variety of "asymmetric" top tailoring, are also deconstructive techniques from the 1990s. The long skirts in the series all adopt the primitive and simple kinking technique, and combine the gorgeous colors of the Renaissance oil paintings to present the typical drape and irregular interweaving.

A continuation, a subversion
In the 1980s, some designers focused on exaggerated silhouettes and strong color contrast. In the 1990s, the appearance of "minimalism" eased the excessive and complicated aesthetics. COPERNI 2023 spring and summer series integrates the sexy minimalism style of the 1990s into modern technology, becoming the most popular brand in Paris Fashion Week.

COPERNI 2023

On the show of COPERNI spring/summer 2023 series, designers S é bastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant invited Bella Hadid to walk from backstage to the center of the stage in bare G-string pants. The staff covered Bella Hadid's body with Fabrican white material by painting. Within a few minutes, after the spray liquid quickly solidified, the designer cut a slit after finishing, presenting a minimalist skirt. Bella Hadid went on the show to show the cutting-edge sprayed fabric of COPERNI. When the liquid spray contacts the skin, the water will evaporate, and the fiber suspended in the polymer solvent will remain on the skin surface, and the non-woven fabric will be formed after repeated superposition, which fits the natural curve of the human body. This spray-painted skirt can be worn, hung, or even thrown back into the original solution bottle for recycling. This wonderful performance made COPERNI one of the most popular shows on the social media platform during this season's Paris Fashion Week.
This form of "ink-jet painting" cannot help but remind people of the show in the 1990s. Shalom Harlow, a supermodel, stood in the center of the stage wearing Alexander McQueen's "No. 13" series works. A pair of robotic arms beside her suddenly woke up, which were incompatible with the tonality of the picture, and sprayed paint on her white strapless poncho dress. As Shalom Harlow kept dancing and rotating, the white dress "generated" into a graffiti printed skirt. Both are "spraying" stage effects. Alexander McQueen presents a very creative T-stage expression, while Sebastian Meyer and Arnold Vernon show subversive fabric technology.

Into the wilderness

UMA WANG 2023

As a leading independent fashion designer in China, Wang Jue has mentioned the profound influence of Antwerp School on her many times. She believes that this is an unavoidable mark for every designer who has experienced the baptism of the 1980s. Both Dris Van Noten's national style painting patterns and Maison Martin Margiela's deconstruction can see the inspiration of Antwerp School on Wang Jue's design style. However, with the application of royal juice, these elements are more oriental and delicate.

UMA WANG 2023

UMA WANG 2023 spring and summer series can be said to be the quietest show of Paris Fashion Week. Its show atmosphere is like a desolate desert, from which you can feel the simple and quiet natural state. In this new series, the style characteristics of the 1980s are also revealed. In the brand's representative neutral tone, Wang Juice integrates more modern geometric texture and exaggerated silhouette. Among them, the huge soft shoulder shape is combined with the skirt made of silk, cotton, hemp and other materials, which is loose without sagging, soft and powerful, becoming the focus of this season. In addition to the application of large contour, it also uses the minimalist tailoring of the 1980s to wrap the body and show the female curve with hollow out, winding and other designs. Wang Jue is good at telling stories with fabrics. It has been the landmark nostalgic aesthetics of UMA WANG for its extensive application of wild printing, national patterns, geometric textures and color blocks.

Article Source:艺术与设计

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