At the beginning of March, the curtain came down on the Fall/Winter 2023 Women's Fashion Week. For anyone who is in the fashion industry or cares about it, the four major fashion weeks are the top priority. For the stars, after the epidemic for the first time out of the four major fashion weeks can increase their exposure and enhance the adhesion with the future cooperation brand; for the media, from the four major fashion weeks can get the latest trend information, and spread to the public; for buyers, the four major fashion weeks on the runway and after the repair SHOWROOM is the best platform for them to select goods; for people who care about the fashion circle To say, the second half of what to wear, how to wear, it depends on the fashion week. And for designers, half a year of exploration of their ideas and hard work, all condensed in a 15-minute show ......
For Chinese designer brands, the four major fashion weeks are no longer the "hilarious" past, on the official schedule of the "big four" fashion weeks is one of their goals, which not only allows them to be among the international stage, but also an incentive to create their own This is not only a chance for them to be on the international stage, but also an opportunity to motivate themselves to create and practice in a more international language. The mushrooming of independent designers has already brought Chinese design into the era of the well.
In this issue, we will take a comprehensive look at these designer brands that will stand on the international stage in the fall and winter of 2023, and see what they, in fact, are using to take the international stage.
PH5: Committed to sustainable knit design
PH5 Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
PH5, a knitwear brand dedicated to sustainability, is staging its Fall/Winter 2023 collection at New York Fashion Week. This season, PH5 continues to extend the reach of knitting and promote the concept of sustainable design. Introducing this season's inspiration, brand owner Wei Lin and design director Zoe Champion said, "This season, we searched the depths of the ocean for a 'new home,' but we discovered that not all the transparent creatures that inhabit the deep are natural We found that not all the transparent creatures that inhabit the deep sea are natural. In adapting to this 'new environment' of the deep sea, we encountered a problem - do we disguise ourselves as a jellyfish or become a discarded plastic bag?"
PH5 Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
For Fall/Winter 2023, PH5 is using the theme of "deep sea" to express the visual language of deep sea creatures through different new technologies. Before the Fall 2023 collection, PH5 was most impressive for its classic knitted suits, but this season we see PH5 stepping out of its classic knitted designs and introducing innovative styles with the addition of woven fabrics, making PH5 richer and more complete.
PH5 Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
It is understood that during the planning of New York Fashion Week, Lin and Zoe collected discarded plastic from friends and family in an attempt to explore the impact of plastic waste on marine life. After the fashion week, instead of easily throwing away the collected plastic and second-hand materials, they crocheted plastic strips into small tote bags as small gifts for their clients. the sustainable concept that PH5 insists on at all times is not only reflected in these colorful clothes, but a sense of responsibility and care for the environment that is always present.
PH5 Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
PH5 is a women's knitting experimental brand founded by Lin Wei in New York in 2014. Lin Wei's mother runs a knitting factory in Dongguan, which is also the manufacturer of PH5. The asymmetrical knitted dress is a classic of PH5, which has been knitting since its inception. The unique curved hemline is full of personality, and the irregular design elements are very modern and artistic. For us, there are techniques that often take months to develop and each garment often requires countless hours of knitting, so the quality of our work is unknown and our prices are unmeasurable in the market, which has made PH5 popular since its launch, says founder and chief executive Lin Wei.
PH5 Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
PH5 Design Director Zoe Champion graduated from Parsons School of Design, the number one art and design school in the country, in 2017.In 2017, Zoe's graduation project was a rainbow knit collection inspired by an old photo of her grandmother. Zoe says, "The wonderful thing about knitting is that you can design every part of it, from the fibers to the yarn." For designer Zoe, knitwear is innovative and experimental, and she likes to take traditional elements and break them down, then reclassify their attributes.
PH5 Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
PH5 is named based on the pH value, with "7" being neutral in the PH index. If '7' represents a unisex brand and '1' represents an extreme feminist brand, PH5 is a brand that tends to be more avant-garde while remaining feminine," explains Linville. "
In the context of sustainability and low carbon, PH5 challenges the public's inherent impression of knitwear and promotes the sustainable development of the apparel industry through its unique design and the use of digital technology combined with traditional knitting techniques.
Private Policy, we are all animals
> Private Policy Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
Private Policy, a genderless fashion brand co-founded by Chinese designers Li Haoran and Qu Siying, returns to New York Fashion Week for Fall/Winter 2023, once again asking and answering questions from a youthful perspective. As a continuation of last season's collection, the Fall/Winter 2023 collection continues to explore the concept of animals with the theme "We are all animals".
> Private Policy Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
"We considered how we could once again explore the concept of animals and the relevance of nature to the urban lifestyle. We realized that we could be inspired by animals and learn from them. This collection embodies the idea of people seeking freedom by releasing their own bestial nature." The show opened with the Japanese folk tale "Fox Wedding" depicted in Akira Kurosawa's film "Dreams". Afterwards, Rickey Thompson opened the show with a Canadian tuxedo designed by Private Policy, with their signature diamond plaid patchwork on the shirt. Unlike previous collections, where clubwear in bold and trendy colors filled the entirety of the designs, this time the designer took a step back and tried to slow down the pace. "It was a very different kind of Private Policy fashion release show, and we wanted to take our time. Since we're talking about nature, we need to think about how we can integrate it into the urban lifestyle." Qu Siying said.
> Private Policy Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
This season, the designer chose denim fabrics to interpret the brand's classic rhombus elements, while mauve work jackets and neutral-colored knitwear break the monochromatic tone of denim. In addition, a number of practical details, such as straps, pockets and buckles, illustrate the commonality between the animal habitat and the demands of urban life, while the plush jackets made from recycled faux fur are a great example of responsibility for the natural habitat. However, the designers have not abandoned their usual design philosophy, and familiar touches like seat belts on button-down shirts and tight-fitting dresses have remained, only opting for a more understated approach.
> Private Policy Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
Genderless dressing is a theme they have been exploring, and the Fall/Winter 2023 collection continues to grow on top of that theme, and this season, they prove that there is more to the brand than young and hip clubwear. They use the whimsy of animals to tell their vision of freedom: "Nature calms people down, and maybe we all need that freedom."
> Private Policy Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
ZIMO, both observer and articulator
From the beginning of the brand, each season ZIMO has taken objects that were once used or have become obsolete and used them as the main material, turning them into a unique expression that fits the current aesthetic and expresses Asian culture. 2023 Fall/Winter collection is the same, telling the story of "hoarding" that belongs to the older generation of Asians. The collection is also about the "hoarding disorder" that belongs to the older Asian generation.
> ZIMO Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
"In our daily lives, we often find things fading away. For example, one of the main elements in the first season is the printed towels that were very common when we were kids, which I found in a store called Shanghai Towel General Store in 2021. At that time, I suddenly realized that few people use this style of towel anymore, and this kind of store is slowly disappearing. This is how we accumulate the things we find in life and put them in our designs." ZIMO designer Yan Zimiao said.
> ZIMO Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
Introducing ZIMO's brand motto "We the Visions", Zimmer Yan said, "We are both observers and expressers. We want to bring out the memories that are unique to our Asian youth through the medium of clothes, and show them in a documentary-like perspective. The first season was about disappearing objects, the second season was about disappearing professions, just like a documentary film, each season expressing the culture of a time that has now disappeared." And what is the story of the latest season, "Hoarding Disorder"?
> ZIMO Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
"When I was a kid, I often saw my grandparents hoarding things. Last year we went to a very famous flea market in Korea, where we saw hundreds of shopkeepers, each showing off their collections of various things. We then realized that 'hoarding disorder' is probably a childhood memory shared by youth throughout Asia." Zimmer Yan said, "Buttons are actually one of the things that people often hoard. We often find buttons that have fallen off of clothes, and most of these buttons are kept and then accumulate more and more. It was also a flea market shopping experience that allowed me to find a lot of stock buttons, each one different from the other. So, this season, there is a series of "buttons", and one of the dresses even has all buttons on it. There are also some styles with small buttons in semi-hidden places like pockets and lapels, as if a collector would hide things, visually presenting the 'hoarder' lifestyle."
> ZIMO Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
When we enter the home of a "hoarder", we see many, many things stacked on top of each other. In order to create a crowded, uncomfortable, and even somewhat depressing environment for hoarders, ZIMO chose a small, semi-underground space for its Fall/Winter 2023 show. Installations and displays made from stock fabrics, second-hand clothes, and recycled stockings transformed the main stage into a show space. The models performed a "documentary show" where they walked around the stage, taking pieces from the racks and layering them on until they were wearing all the jackets on the gantry, creating a full image of crazy layering. In the small room behind the main stage, the designer used similar techniques and installations to restore a chaotic and cramped "hoarder's house". The models, who had already put on all their coats, entered the "hoarder's house" one by one and took off their coats one by one and hung them on the gantry in the room, gradually making the room more crowded. A grandmother sat in the center of the room, surrounded by all the installations, scraps, clothes, models, and audience, crocheting by herself, presenting the audience with a real "hoarder's" living environment and appearance.
Sandy Liang, Chinese expression of Balletcore aesthetics
> Sandy Liang Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
In 2014, Sandy Liang, a designer graduated from Parsons School of Design, founded her eponymous personal brand, with a fresh and retro style, a self-contained mix and match, a signature down-town fashion attitude and a delicate and rich girly style fused in Sandy Liang's design, the New York girl born and bred has passed her understanding of girly "easily" to everyone. "At New York Fashion Week 2023, Sandy Liang stood out among the crowd of spirited American style. This time, Sandy Liang for Fall/Winter 2023 is a woman who loves ballet.
> Sandy Liang Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
The ballet energy (balletcore) started by MIUMIU is sweeping the fashion world at a frenetic pace. Ballet's influence on fashion can be traced back to the ballet mania of the 1930s and 1940s. Ballerinas have been the object of cultural fascination for centuries, and now ODD (off-duty dancer) after-hours dancer wear is back in vogue both on and off the runway, with a lifestyle that revolves around the core aesthetics of ballet infusing fashion design.
> Sandy Liang Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
In Sandy Liang's Fall/Winter 2023 collection, as a child born in the Internet era, Sandy Liang brought her keen insight and fashion sense to show her fervor and understanding of Balletcore. She combined ballet elements, 19th century dresses and millennial low-waist silhouettes. The thin black veil and opaque ballet leggings brought rebellion to the innocence of white high-waist dresses, and a series of ballet elements such as bows, ballet leggings and pointy-toe flat shoes were in abundance, and the layered sense and satin silk draped around the waist were the focus of the show. The delicate girlishness of ballet was occasionally adjusted to the rhythm by details such as Y2K elements. While continuing the ballet aesthetic, Sandy Liang fused two of the most unique and feminine symbols of modern society through elements such as satin ribbons and veils. For Sandy Liang, the dress is the "uniform" of a young girl who can do whatever you need to do in her. Although Sandy Liang is heavily influenced by traditional vintage clothing, in a way, she subverts the tradition of matching by adding ultra-sheer tulle, capes and other details to her clothes.
> Sandy Liang Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
Almost every model was adorned with floral prints and bows, the usual elements of Sandy Liang's preference for teenage girls and her own core design language, bubble sleeves and doll dresses are still her main style, but this season's collection also incorporates more practical elements, including turtlenecks, pike coats, hooded tops, casual pants and sneakers designed in collaboration with Salomon.
> Sandy Liang Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
The venue for the Fall/Winter 2023 collection was the reading room of the New York Medical College, where brown bookshelves lined the walls and a sense of theatrical wisdom permeated the show, colliding with the Renaissance elements that inspired the season. The Sandy Liang girls, created by stylist Dean DiCriscio, walked into the show with a more mysterious air than ever before. The highlight of the show was definitely the closing look, a bright red floor-length dress, the first dress designed by Sandy Liang. There was a huge bow in front of the dress and a blooming rose in the middle. The slightly mature and bright red color met with such girly details, which also foreshadowed the gradually maturing side of the girl.
KWK by KAY KWOK's future narrative
With full oriental confidence, KWK by Kay Kwok returns to London Fashion Week at the beginning of 2023 on the tenth anniversary of the brand's founding. KWK's image is boldly and resolutely avant-garde and futuristic, a decade in the making based on the principles of avoiding style conventions, abolishing stereotypes, and achieving genderlessness, experimentation and opposites in artistry and aesthetics. The protagonist of this futuristic narrative, Kay Kwok.
> KWK by KAY KWOK Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
This time, Kay Kwok once again presents a narrative about the future, the story he tells takes place in the year 2100, at this time the earth has become a wasteland, there is only endless darkness, the surface of the earth has become too desolate, the air too hot, the land too barren, the earth has long ceased to be suitable for human habitation, in the process of escaping from the earth, strange creatures began to rule the earth, and the main character LALA is a cyborg girl who was The main character LALA is a Cyborg girl left on Earth, she lives hundreds of meters underground in the humidity and darkness, the only companion is like her half biological half mechanical dragon, in this dark and desperate life to bring company, they are called "incarnation". In this strange and unfriendly environment, LALA still dreams of seeing her parents again.
> KWK by KAY KWOK Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
By positioning the collection in the future, Kwok frees himself from the constraints of today's design, allowing LALA to represent "the values, ethics and stories we see in the real world", continuing the exploration and narrative of the future world with experimental designs. Kay Kwok has always believed that digital art has its own aesthetic worth exploring. To complement the digital-inspired tone of the collection, sound producer Darya created the musical backdrop for the show with notes from the AI generator ChatGPT. Inspired by imaginary worlds, Darya's sound art reflects her thoughts and emotions, delivered through the notes of ChatGPT to create a unique sound, one that is both futuristic and rooted in today's technology. Like Kay Kwok, Darya creates a world of her own through her art, a world where she is in control and free to express herself as she chooses.
> KWK by KAY KWOK Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
"LOUDER" is a post-apocalyptic fairy tale, but also a story that is embodied in fashion. The designs such as entwined dragons, metal armor, and silver-wrapped transparent wings appear on the clothes with a dark sense of destruction and deconstructed asymmetrical ideas, a kind of wasteland aesthetics and many subcultural elements collide and fuse in the show's location. As the year 2100 spreads, the line between virtual and reality is blurred, and it seems that the dialogue between the present and the future is unveiled in the next step of the unknown. This is the future that KWK by Kay Kwok is looking at from this moment, and this is also what LALA from the future wants to say. Underneath the strong visual impact, there is a reflection on the future of human society. The theme of this season is "louder", making life louder, loving ourselves more and loving humanity more. That's why, when casting, Kay Kwok intentionally chose people of different sizes, ages and races, with "LOUDER" being the key to the story and the future.
Building on a philosophy of experimental expression, looking to the future and imagining a global community we have yet to reach is at the heart of KWK by Kay Kwok's unique vision. In the KWK by Kay Kwok Fall/Winter 2023 collection, multiple subcultures collide in a rich imagery of the present and future worlds, as Kay Kwok imagines what the future holds and how much of the human knowhow is hidden in the messages that emerge from the greater expression of individuality and the liberation of diversity.
yuhan wang, quirks and reveries
> yuhan wang fall/winter 2023 collection
As an independent designer, Wang Yuhan became the first mainland Chinese womenswear designer to be selected by Fashion East (East End Fashion Project) in London in 2018, and her sensitive portrayal of female power under the lens of romantic nostalgia was favored by Lulu Kennedy. Prior to this, Wang Yuhan had received her BA and MA in Womenswear Design from Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design and joined the Marni brand design team. 2020, Wang Yuhan began to fully focus and return to her work for her eponymous designer brand yuhan wang, which was shortlisted for the LVMH Award in the same year, and also opened up the journey of launching as an independent designer brand at London Fashion Week. journey.
Wang Yuhan's design style has been continuing since her graduation work, which she would describe as "my design style is feminine, delicate, and full of romanticism. Sometimes I add some eccentric elements, so that women's temperament and small character can be expressed in it". The creative style also reflects the designer's philosophy and attitude towards life, changing the traditional perception of women's fragility and sensitivity through romance and poetry.
> yuhan wang fall/winter 2023 collection
yuhan wang's Fall/Winter 2023 collection theme is "The Returned Woman", inspired by director Quentin Tarantino's "Kill Bill". Going beyond the tribute to the classic and Quentin's iconic narrative, Wang Yuhan hopes to use the image created by this story to reconstruct the pursuit of women's value, strength and faith from the designer's perspective: "When the bride is stripped of everything she has by Bill, but she is still able to rediscover herself in this environmental state and win everyone's respect for her. ".
Visual elements from the Kill Bill movies have been extracted several times and transformed and interpreted in the series. For example, the yellow and black leather jumpsuit worn by Uma Thurman in the movie, the Japanese samurai sword, and the chain weapon used by the character Gogo Yubari, etc. Wang Yuhan breaks them up through a more personal approach, redrawing the weapon chain by adding ribbons and other elements into this season's prints, and deconstructing the jacket using the Japanese anime atmosphere of black and yellow color scheme ...... everything through the reorganization of silhouette, style, fabric, color, matching, and Quentin's film non-linear narrative way as one.
> yuhan wang fall/winter 2023 collection
The design techniques and elements that Wang Yuhan is good at are also reinforced in this collection, creating reverie through the sense of conflict between materials and atmosphere. The clash of fur and lace, the grafting of lace and fish skeleton, the strength and wildness of softness and rebirth are fully felt; the fusion of romantic fluttering printed materials and dark temperament brings an unparalleled air of sophistication. The embroidery favored in Wang Yuhan's work is still used in this season, and the image of a kitten is also added in the traditional craft, the designer prefers the sweetness and spirituality shared by cats and femininity. Skilled in the cutting and styling of silk floral fabrics, this season's pieces not only continued the proportions and layering of the brand's signature designs, but also produced a diverse temperament due to the overlay of inspiration.
Wang Yuhan's unique feminine perspective was also fully reflected in the makeup and hair styling of this show series. The high bun of gold, reddish brown, or dark hair, like a crowned bride, combined with the woven colored braids filled, light, fluffy, poetic and proud. A specially designed print makeup at the end of the eye makeup adds to the whimsical and playful side of the female image portrayed.
SUSAN FANG: Linking the community of human destiny with love
> SUSAN FANG AW23 Autumn/Winter 2023 Collection
With light and melodious music, brightly colored clothes, and a rose-scented scene, SUSAN FANG Autumn/Winter 2023 was staged at London Fashion Week. This fashion release was a heart-to-heart dialogue between the designer and the audience, full of the designer's blessings to us.
SUSAN FANG founder and designer Yeonan Fang said, "This season we continue the style characteristics and brand philosophy that the brand has always had, but also have a lot of innovation. Counting up, time-consuming hand-knitted garments, embroidered clothing inspired by classic pajamas, woven bubble bags made of leftover fabrics, 3D printed dream flip-flops and running soles ...... each of which we created and made with full sincerity and effort.
> SUSAN FANG AW23 Autumn/Winter 2023 Collection
"SUSAN FANG Fall/Winter 2023 designs were shown in front of everyone with the aim that everyone could feel that the energy that links everything in the universe is 'love', and I am very happy that everyone felt it. Some people shed tears, some were healed ...... At the end of the show, everyone was happily playing with the roses which were protected by the space formed by the white enclosing curtain, emitting a ghostly rose fragrance." So Yeon Nam said, "Seeing the audience generate such a reaction, I knew that people felt the blessing we wanted to bring to everyone - to find the dreams we started in our childhood and to awaken the love for everything around us."
Talking about the inspiration for this season's design, Yeonan Fang said, "I was recently reading AMI: Child Of The Stars, by Enrique Barrios, which is about aliens coming to Earth. The story tells us that aliens may not be evil, but no matter how powerful the technology on Earth is, if there is more 'evil' than 'love', then the Earth will destroy itself internally. In other words, the breadth of love is better than the narrowness of knowledge and thought.
> SUSAN FANG AW23 Autumn/Winter 2023 Collection
Fang Yannan's idea was exactly realized in this multiple experience field crowded with sight, sound, smell, taste and touch. "Taking this opportunity, I hope to form a universal family full of hope. Although we come from different countries, under the same sky, everything we do is connected. Intangible love, memory and imagination are each connected like fragrant scents. All nations are human life forms, and we can be re-linked through this invisible but powerful energy - love." Fang Yannan said.
Since SUSAN FANG was established in 2017, designer Fang Yannan has always insisted on following her heart and creating freely. 2015, after graduating from Central Saint Martins with a degree in womenswear design, Fang Yannan did not rush to establish her own brand, but worked for established brands such as Céline, Stella McCartney and Kei Kagami to gain design experience. After two years, she became more and more bored with commercial design and decided to follow her heart's desire for creative freedom and set up her own brand.
> SUSAN FANG AW23 Autumn/Winter 2023 Collection
This is not the first time SUSAN FANG has made a show overseas. Facing fierce competition from major international brands and many designer brands, Fang Yannan said, "In terms of innovation, we still have a distance to go compared to some countries, but I hope to change the stereotype that 'China is only strong in manufacturing'. Our strengths are our ability to accept new things, the strength and speed of our factories, and our design, creativity and technology. Of course I think everything has to start from the real work, just like seeing a beautiful piece of art will inspire us to make a decision and influence our aesthetics. Creating sincere work from the heart is sure to impress everyone."
Huishan Zhang: The Tension of Psychedelia
> Huishan Zhang Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
As an iconic Chinese designer, Huishan Zhang has been active on the international stage of fashion weeks. During his studies at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design, Huishan Zhang was admired by Delphine Arnault and worked for three years at the House of Dior-Paris, where he worked on leather goods and in the Dior Haute Couture atelier. Notably, the V&A Museum in London selected his fashion "Dragon Dress" for the permanent collection of the T.T. Tsui Gallery, making him the first Chinese contemporary fashion designer to receive this honor.
> Huishan Zhang Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
Huishang Zhang found inspiration and direction through her ethnic identity and founded the eponymous Huishang Zhang, a premium brand that combines Eastern traditions with Western influences to create a romantic, sophisticated and timeless feel through feminine details, strong lines and clear designs. The brand's core philosophy is to "reinvent the value of creativity and craftsmanship in haute couture, blending haute couture design with innovative tailoring".
For the Fall/Winter 2023 collection, Huishan Zhang was inspired by the women portrayed in the films of master of suspense Alfred Hitchcock and "wanted to find her own way to bring the Hitchcockian woman into the 21st century, creating a woman who is both dangerously seductive and confident. ". The psychedelic filmic vibe that characterizes the work comes through and sets the tone for the entire collection's design. This season's collection release also marks Huishan Zhang's return to London Fashion Week after a three-year hiatus.
> Huishan Zhang Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
Continuing the classic sense of haute couture, this season's ensembles were all exquisitely blended in silhouette, detail and proportion, but the addition of new inspirational elements made this season's pieces more memorable and aptly alluded to the language of Hitchcock's film: dramatic conflict, that is, life without the boring parts. The mysterious hijab, the straightforward high-cut, or the metaphorical unlined lace suits and metal punching of the tweed coats all made the character of this season's works more vivid and distinct.
Zhang Huishan's work is good at using sequins, feathers, hand embroidery and other decorative techniques, and with this season's new theme, the expression of techniques and materials also seems to be more comfortable and breakthrough. The free polka dot pattern of organza, superimposed on the monochrome conventional fabric, presents a particularly striking hazy color; the mysterious Chinese ink painting-like print conveys the psychedelia and tension in the movie through a body coming from the front, just like the details and suspense set in the suspense movie, Zhang Huishan has also laid a meticulous ambush in the details and structure of the clothes, waiting for the dresser or The dresser or admirer will discover and reveal them one by one.
> Huishan Zhang Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
In addition to the large dresses that remain, the concept of "new high mix and match" has been highlighted in previous seasons, and this season's looks are mixed with hoods, collars, and large bow ties. By embellishing the specially treated lime denim with black beadwork and using a mix of rigid and soft lines to trim the body shape and reveal a new silhouette, Zhang Huishan gave us a glimpse of the aesthetics and diversity that he has been upholding for a long time.
In this season, to set the atmosphere of the clothes, its show makeup look is also noteworthy. Using natural and genuine eyeliner-less nude eye makeup with light base makeup to show women's closest to their original state, highlighting the mystery and chic of the clothes. The Hitchcock women who came out of the screen were empowered by Huishan Zhang's fashion work, they were clear and crisp, bold and confident, and more powerful in their inner world.
> Huishan Zhang Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
siyun huang: the temperature of dynamic fashion art
At the London Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2023 official schedule presentation, siyun huang presented two sets of interactive dynamic fashion artworks with the strong interdisciplinary attributes of fashion, art and technology. A translucent blue acrylic top showed a unique dynamic effect, the subtlety of which was the ability to produce variable speed visual effects with the change of light, giving a rich visual experience. Another gradient-colored organza cloak, with the help of fluctuating brainwave data, makes the edges of the textile gradually stretch and undulate, as if floating in the ocean with the wind, showing graceful folds like waves.
These two pieces are influenced by deep ecology, 'Celestial Harmony' and Cyborg philosophy, with multiple sensors and drives embedded in the fashion, allowing it to respond to the ever-changing external environment," said Siyun Huang, founder and designer of siyun huang. "
> siyun huang fall/winter 2023 collection
Siyun Huanguses the elements of fashion shape change to show the fluidity and vitality of the underwater world, aiming to explore the nature of fashion as a "wearable organism". She extracts intention from natural elements such as starfish, coral, plankton, water ripples, and water light, and reshapes them into artificial products with organic forms. The aesthetic concept of artificial order and natural spirituality is described.
"Each design element has been carefully calculated, experimented and iterated in order to present a sense of 'breath', 'life' and 'growth' in visual terms. generated; in terms of technology, it seeks to extend the boundaries of the combination of fashion art and digital technology; in terms of emotion, it calls for a balanced relationship between human and ecology."Siyun Huangsaid, "The fashion industry 'seeking newness and change' is the essential attribute, while 'technology is new', we also hope to spread the 'temperature' of humanistic care '."
> siyun huang fall/winter 2023 collection
Siyun HuangStudio 2022 was founded in Beijing, China, as a cross-disciplinary "fashion + art + technology" creative studio. This is the first time since the studio's establishment that the studio has had a speciallaunch at London Fashion Week. AlthoughSiyun Huangonly showed two pieces at London Fashion Week, he gained a lot of love from users and public attention.
Siyun Huangwas influenced and inspired by the "Fashion Art" teaching system during her undergraduate studies at the Central Academy of Fine Arts. In her works, you can see not only the artistry, fashion and technology, but also her discernment. Because of the uniqueness of her "cross-disciplinary" approach and the assistance of cutting-edge digital technology, "clothing" and "clothing culture" have been able to extend their carriers, extend their fields, and gain new interpretations, making Clothes are more than just a physical "clothes".
Siyun Huangintroduces Dynamic Fashion Art, a collection of fashion art, discursive design, human-computer interaction, bionic power structure and other pioneering frontier areas, the core of our strategy is "fashion + art + technology". Different from the traditional "clothing" static state, dynamic fashion in the form of dynamic transformation to induce people from the senses to perception to cognitive scale of the in-depth progression. It explores new cultures and new consciousness, new technologies and new materials, new aesthetics and new boundaries, and offers the possibility of discernment for future fashion innovation.
Chau-sheng CHAU-RISING, belongs to young people
> CHAU-RISING Autumn/Winter 2023 Collection
On February 21st, local Chinese designer brand Chau-Rising landed at London Fashion Week for the first time, releasing its Autumn/Winter 2023 collection - "FINAL WISH" (最後的心願). Born in 2017, Chau-Rising's unique aesthetic positioning and deep commitment to cashmere materials made the brand's debut on the international stage a popular one.
> CHAU-RISING Autumn/Winter 2023 Collection
"The word 'continent' in the name comes from the seven continents on earth, and the 'three dots of water' on the side of 'continent' is very imposing in calligraphy, which can give It gives a sense of the ocean. 'Rise' expresses the sun rising slowly and then going back and forth. I hope the brand can have the power of the sun rising in the east, and grow gradually and continuously." Brand designer Liu Chaoying explains, "At the same time, China is also the main producer of cashmere, the main material of Chau-Risings, which accounts for more than 85% of the world's production. So the brand itself was born with genes that carry a very thick Chinese character."
"It is well known that cashmere has not served young people for decades, it has always been sold at exorbitant prices to the more privileged and wealthy. But I think the younger generation in China, who are well read, international and better informed, should also have more upscale clothing to choose from. I want to use cashmere to make a brand that meets their aesthetic needs and can fit into their lives."
> CHAU-RISING Autumn/Winter 2023 Collection
Speaking about the "Last Wish" for the Fall/Winter 2023 collection, Liu Chaoying said, "In the past year, the global situation was chaotic, the new epidemic was white hot, and many old people passed away, so there was inevitable doomsday thinking. I then wondered what unfulfilled wishes I had at the end of my life, which inspired a kind of better yearning for the future and then to feed some of my present woes." This kind of thinking of life after death is also reflected in the new season's design. "Last Wish" is divided into four series: "Time Travel" mainly includes futuristic concept models, expressing the expectation of a new world at the end of time and space, distortion, alternation, mutation, etc. The abstract forms express the hope of rebirth; "The Beautiful of the Broken" contains beautiful ancient patterns that write history and turn into ashes as time passes, unveiling the veil of rebirth; "Born to the Sun" expresses the hope of redeeming the souls in the darkness by stepping on the All Saints' chrysanthemum, a symbol of hope and life. The "Self-Reconciliation" is made of soft knit and hard denim, forming a strong contrast, while applying contradictory colors to portray the mood of intense darkness and extreme beauty.
> CHAU-RISING Autumn/Winter 2023 Collection
> CHAU-RISING Autumn/Winter 2023 Collection
RUIRUI DENG, the scarlet song of the alien shark
At the beginning of the film, an English garden, an old woman with white hair in an English bun is watering flowers in the garden. At that moment, the phone rings and she slowly walks into the room wearing delicate thin heels: "Hi, long time no see, good to hear your voice ......" This is the brand RUIRUI DENG, founded by DENG Rui, launching in London Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2023 This is the digital short film of RUIRUI DENG, the brand founded by Deng Rui, launched in London Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2023.
> RUIRUI DENG Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
RUIRUI DENG's fashion short films always have a cinematic quality, as if time flows slowly and has its own rules; and like blood, it supports the life in the slow flow. The theme of this season's collection is "CRIMSON", which means scarlet. "Scarlet is a color, and one that doesn't quite catch the eye. Some people find it dull, some find it melancholy, some find it slow, but the color of human blood is this color." The reason for choosing a color to name the new season's design, RUIRUI DENG's founder, Deng Rui, says it starts with the story of the brand's founding.
RUIRUI DENG was founded where COVID-19 was popular, and the graduation show that Deng Rui, who was about to graduate from St. Martin's, had prepared for a long time was cancelled as a result. DENG Rui feels that humans at the top of the food chain are at their wits' end in the face of unknown viruses, and it seems that humans do not know themselves as well as they think they do. So what would it be like to observe the Earth from an alien's point of view, to observe the humans living on the Earth? Deng Rui used his favorite mermaid as a child to create the role of an alien shark as the LOGO of the brand and an observer of the Earth. "RUIRUIDENG is a brand that is a worldview hypothetical of an alien planet. The outer space shark comes to the planet in an attempt to explore the environment that belongs to humans by understanding the work of artist Hieronymus Bosch. Considered one of the inspirations of Surrealism since the turn of the century, the Dutch painter's pictures are highly imaginative and use a wide range of symbols and signs that are difficult to understand. The understanding of the human world by the first arrivals on Earth is as futile and confusing as our attempts to decipher Bose's paintings. The brand's logo consists of absurd images of mermaids, who form the letters R and D, my initials. The brand's work has a playful, absurd and gothic tone, and each season outlines a new story line, presenting the latest research by the sharks into the absurdity of human life and existence."
> RUIRUI DENG Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
This season, the sharks pointed their attention to the most important part of the human body and composed a magical and poetic song with this color. Deng Rui designed jackets with soft silhouettes in stiff fabrics and attached them with soft lace, the logo printed all over the fabric looks abrupt and absurd against the background color. The logo printed all over the fabric looks abrupt and absurd under the background color. The combination of stiff new technology fabric and old lace makes her design present a kind of intersection and dialogue between the new and the old, the present and the future. In addition to silhouette jackets, knitting is also a feature of this season. She wore malleable wires in soft knitted designs, giving the soft knit a rigid strength and an unworldly naivety - after all, in the habit of earthlings, clothes are soft and warm, who would stuff hard things into clothes? Perhaps, only aliens would be so free to freely explore and experiment with the habits of the earthlings. The knitting with the addition of steel wire gives the whole piece of knitting a three-dimensional and gaping texture, as if what is worn on the body is not a warm garment, but just a way to talk to the earth.
Sara Wong, flowing through the gardens of Suzhou
> SARA WONG Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
The younger generation of Chinese designers bring an unambiguously fresh perspective to their understanding of Eastern culture, and as a highly charged design force, they represent China with a powerful voice. Among them, SARA WONG takes traditional culture as a starting point to create dreams for women. In the words of Siyuan Wang, she hopes to see in SARA WONG "what she can eventually become. There is no one so-called limit, anything is possible".
SARA WONG is a brand of the same name founded by Chinese designer Wang Siyuan, who has a double degree from RMIT Royal Institute of Technology Fashion Design in Australia and a master's degree in finance from the University of Melbourne in Australia, avant-garde and retro style.
> SARA WONG Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
SARA WONG's Fall/Winter 2023 collection, entitled Dreams in Paradise, is inspired by the culture of Suzhou, where Wang Siyuan balances the delicate elegance of Suzhou garden architecture with the softness of Kunqu costumes. During the Ming and Qing dynasties, Suzhou became the most prosperous region in China, with a proliferation of private gardens known for their elegance and sophistication. As one of China's oldest traditional works and a treasure of traditional Chinese culture and art, Kunqu Opera also infuses SARA WONG with a true Chinese soul. The color palette of the entire collection is inspired by kunqu costumes, featuring purple, cherry blossom pink and soft goose yellow. The kunqu costumes in kunqu are soft, classical and gentle presented in a modern tailoring.
> SARA WONG Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
The SARA WONG Fall/Winter 2023 collection continues the brand's previous patchwork approach of weaving fringe and wool, with clever color combinations that showcase the rich possibilities of the garments. SARA WONG pays tribute to Chinese culture by using floral elements and traditional kunqu costumes, such as colorful fringe, cloud shoulders and patchwork, to recreate the quintessential beauty of Jiangnan culture. Cloud shoulder is a unique element in Chinese costume culture with rich decorative patterns, symbolic artistic language, and deep cultural heritage. SARA WONG incorporates the power of SARA WONG costumes in jacquard fabrics, thus blending beauty and balance.
> SARA WONG Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
The SARA WONG Fall/Winter 2023 show was a "dream of paradise" through China with a relaxed and elegant color palette that brought a pleasant mood and offered a way to heal oneself and find one's own peace even in uncertain times.
HUI, Mulan's trip to Milan
> HUI Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
"Cutting through the female theme and digging deeper into Chinese women's culture is what we have been doing." said Zhao Huizhou, founder of the HUI brand.
"Women's writing", which is the only female writing in the world, is known as the "rock" of women's tears. HUI has paid tribute to this form of female "liberation" with its "Chinese Women's Calligraphy" series, which has only four strokes: dot, vertical, diagonal and arc. With the "Beyond the Screen" series, HUI has combined classic heritage with modern design to convey its appreciation for the awakening of women's self-awareness.
> HUI Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
For the HUI Fall/Winter 2023 collection, the focus is on "Mulan". "Every era has its own heroine, and Hua Mulan is a legendary woman who joined the army on behalf of her father and is a household name. In her body, I see a combination of female beauty and strength. This style, which can be valiant or soft, is exactly the female power I want to convey." Zhao Huizhou, founder of the HUI brand, said.
Corresponding to this season's theme, Zhao Huizhou made extensive use of dragon and floral patterns in the pattern design and decorative elements. "Beauty is an existence full of personality and diversity. Whether it is the majesty of the dragon or the softness of the flower, the best choice is to find a self-effacing balance between the two. Just like Mulan, although she is a daughter, she also has a male soul. True female strength needs to not set limits for herself, they can be gentle and sensual, but also elegant and handsome, and dare to live a different self." Zhao Huizhou said. In the design, the dragon and flower motifs, as well as the deconstructive interplay of lines and surfaces, form a layered whole by cutting, interspersing and linking. The double dragon and pearl motif, on the other hand, is blurred, and she hopes to use the wool print form to dilute the original angles of the pattern. Through the hidden mystery, to reveal the unique feminine delicacy and spirituality.
> HUI Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
"The production of the cloud-shoulder style pattern was extremely challenging for our design team." This part of the pattern was extracted from a bronze mirror, and Zhao Huizhou wanted to be able to print a mottled antique gold color, thus making the color more difficult to control. Secondly, it was more complicated to make, requiring embroidery out of net-colored yarn first and then follow-up work such as hand stitching through a combination of silk embroidery and printing. "In the early stage, we looked for many embroidery factories but couldn't do it, and the machine embroidery made looked very raw and stereotypical. After a period of screening, we found an embroidery factory that had high requirements for its own workmanship. Nevertheless, it took more than a month before and after to achieve the final presentation." Zhao Huizhou said.
In addition to this, the series also features a large number of patterns such as magnolia and magnolia flowers. "Since ancient times, magnolia has been a symbol of elegance, refinement and temperament. When it blooms, it does not need the support of green leaves and can blossom with a unique temperament of independence, confidence and elegance. As time goes by, it becomes more and more attractive, just like a classic woman in time. Magnolia flowers are also exactly the brand symbol of HUI." Zhao Huizhou said.
> HUI Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
In terms of fabric, environmentally friendly knitted fabrics are used and embroidery and foil stamping are applied to increase the sense of luxury. Secondly, flocked fabric is applied, which takes all kinds of fabrics as the backing and plants nylon fleece or viscose fleece on the front, and then processed by baking and washing. The effect presented can make the velvet surface more abundant outside, but also make the color full of saturation. At the fabric sequins, the flocked jacquard process is used to increase the overall sense of layering and solemnity. The artistic silhouette is also used to create a sense of layering and draws on the characteristics of pop art to highlight the visual language and increase the dramatic tension and plasticity of the fashion.
Shuting Qiu, using just something to break the beauty
> Shuting Qiu Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
At the first glance of Shuting Qiu's designs, you will be infected by the designer's very punchy prints and textures. Like the layered brushstrokes on an oil painting, you have to look more than once to see the details. Sequins, embroidery, plaids or collages of geometric and floral patterns, the interplay of flat and three-dimensional materials, each shape incorporating at least several layering techniques. It's like a kaleidoscopic world, so rich it makes you dizzy. "Heavy" has always been Qiu's design language. "Since I won my first award when I was a student, I have been using a lot of heavy craftsmanship." She says.
In her junior year, Qiu's mentor was Walter Van Beirendonck, one of the "Six Gentlemen of Antwerp," and she had the opportunity to observe and learn from him up close. Walter's "total commitment when making a collection" and "pursuit of perfection" have influenced Qiu Shuting in a subtle way. Many designers who graduated from Antwerp will recall that it was a place where the teacher would always say "do it again". Walter was very clear about her need to have her own unique style, to ask "what's your story behind?" over and over again, and to discover the possibilities in each collection.
> Shuting Qiu Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
It was during this "refinement" that Qiu figured out her own style. When someone said to her for the first time, "Your design is so colorful, it looks so happy," she realized that what she felt was natural was so colorful to others. The formation of this visual language is related to her love of studying diverse cultures. When she was a student, she chose the Indian "Katakali Dancer" for a project on ethnic costumes. She was impressed by the way the local people drew their mouths so large that they were far beyond the edges of their lips. Unexpectedly, the 3D version of the mousepiece jewelry she made out of a whim was subsequently worn by Jolin Tsai on the album cover "Ugly Beauty". As a symbol, the mousepiece continued in Qiu's collection for a while, but in her words, it was not "pretty pretty" that she wanted to express.
In 2018, Qiu Shu Ting won her first award and held a show in New York, which was her first collection to be revealed and the beginning of her attention. The press began to summarize the designer's dazzling design language. Qiu said with a smile that she had never summarized it, but when she saw a summary that made sense, she wrote it down silently. Over time, she herself began to think about what the natural sense of collision in her designs meant to her. "I think women have both a soft side and a very hard side, just like myself. Are those soft things of mine Romantic, it may still have to bring some Strong things, both coexist."
> Shuting Qiu Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
For example, the jacquard fabrics and silks used in her work are very feminine materials, but on the other hand, Qiu Shu Ting will reconcile them with more masculine elements, such as plaid or the sharp silhouette of a suit. Each collection "clashes" in this way. At the same time, she always emphasizes positive emotions, colors that make people feel happy. She believes that different people wear their own clothes and the effect is different. It is worth persevering if you can connect multiple people with clothes. She calls it "Shuting Qiu's community", where people can share some common ideas. "I do embroidery in Hangzhou for each season's clothes, and it's good to provide some small jobs for the handicraft aunts in Hangzhou; including many interns who are passionate about fashion, I give them some advice at this time, which I think is also good."
Being within control and not deviating from her original intention while being able to have fun is the direction she expects Shuting Qiu, as a brand, to keep going in next. For someone who knows exactly what she wants, but is a bit "capricious" and follows her feelings, this goal is very "Shuting Qiu". The process of coming up with an idea, putting it on the draft, adjusting it on the model, and finally turning it into a piece of clothing is tedious and full of expectations. What gives her the most satisfaction is when she finishes the show. Unfortunately, before she could enjoy that moment, she was taken aside for an interview, followed by the showroom and a host of other things. The joy can only be felt in retrospect.
> Shuting Qiu Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
Ricostru, fashion creation is only a certain outlet to express insights
If you have the chance to be invited by designer Rico (Agile Ou) to her home in Shanghai, be sure to experience the Corbusier LC4 recliner on the side of the living room, where Rico loves to enjoy movie time. The interior's large area of black and stainless steel mixed with a wooden tone is quite industrial and futuristic, aptly echoing her temperament. As a Guangdong-born post 85, Rico's upbringing coincided with the rapid rise of modernization in the coastal region in the 90s and the rapid popularity of Western pop culture in the millennium. As Ricostru, which she founded, entered the public eye, the minimalist language of industrial elements throughout was increasingly amplified by the designer brand.
> RICOSTRU Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
Ricostru is derived from the Italian word "Ricostruzione", which means "to rebuild". The name suggests that Ricostru hopes for the continued vitality of the brand, after all, "everyone's life trajectory will experience a time of breaking and reorganization." Appointed by fashion guru Giorgio Armani, Rico became the first Chinese womenswear designer to step onto the Armani/Teatro show floor and continued to appear on the international stage. At that time she was still living in Guangzhou and her studio was located there. In her opinion, Guangdong has retained its traditional manufacturing heritage and the teachers are emotional about the industry.
Driving from home to the studio for that hour every day, Rico likes to give a background sound to the modern buildings with various reflective surfaces along the way and the sense of speed weaving through the elevated streets. In 2021, the tenth year of Ricostru's existence, Rico has concluded that in the first two years of the brand's existence, consumers were not ready to understand and digest the designer brand's work, and it was not until around the fifth year that she gradually set up direct stores and entered the growth period; the system of Milan Fashion Week helped her reacquaint herself with enhancing the layout of the product and brand image. However, just as she was moving toward scale, she became increasingly uncomfortable. "A lot of times the feedback that stores give you, the feedback that the market gives you, is starting to differ from how you want to feel yourself." After 2018, Ricostru readjusted its business path, and at the same time, Rico was rethinking the value of designer brands in the marketplace.
> RICOSTRU Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
The most recognizable features of Ricostru, such as sculptural and technological fabrics, have always come from the designers' self-expression. Influenced by her upbringing, Rico feels strongly about stainless steel, stone, glass, and even concrete, so much so that her visual language is associated with an industrial feel. rico believes that their generation of designers who have absorbed both eastern and western ideas need to make something that belongs to this era. "Our fashion vocabulary is perceived as westernized. But I think westernization is not a symbol, it is a real feeling that our generation has experienced from birth to growth. The modernization process is the process of westernization, part of becoming a global community of destiny."
Rico increasingly finds resonance in designer Martin Margiela. The legendary designer, who on one hand passed on previously neglected forms and on the other hand created silhouettes that had never been seen before, just at a certain point, considered his mission accomplished and exited the fashion world. "Majella was concerned with more than fashion itself; he exported a view of society through fashion artistry." Rico finds it far more interesting to look at fashion outside of its confines than to be in it. "Fashion creation is just a certain outlet to express insight."
> RICOSTRU Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
In the past three years, the ancient tea horse route within Yunnan, Dunhuang, Tibet ...... she has traveled all the places she wanted to go before, but did not have time for immersive experience. During the process, Rico's feelings produced a strong shift, compared to the previous cyberpunk type of theme of technology affecting human destiny, the integration of national civilization will become more and more important, she wants to extend the part that can reflect the identity down in her creation. Recently, Ricostru returned to Milan with her new collection "Reconstructing the ancient path", which combines traditional craftsmanship with a modern Westernized dress code. Earrings made of sterling silver are shaped like screws and tracks; the mottled imagery of ancient walls is projected onto the fabrics. "Although the world is intermingled, the way each person sees the world must be linked to the culture of their own people. If Ricostru can show such a connection, that's my goal."
> RICOSTRU Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
DIDU, more than sexy
The topic of DIDU seems to be very grand. Designer Dudi tries to explore and look inward in his creation, using clothing as a carrier to explore about life, about human nature, and about female power. It is as if "endless distant places and countless people are related to me".
It is hard to define DIDU with one word or one style, it is sexy, but more than that, DIDU represents a sense of power and strong self-expression, it is about self-love and self-acceptance of examination and reflection.
> DIDU Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
Each season of DIDU expresses an emotion. As a designer who thinks in words first, Dudi's design thinking always starts from meaning, extends abstracted concepts, and then forms the outline of a story based on life's marginal experiences. For Dudi, design is about fresh output and cannot be swayed by the outside world from his original design heart.
The uncompromising perseverance in his bones probably comes from the small city of Antwerp and the inculcation of his predecessors. "In Antwerp, fashion, art, life and play, all can absorb nutrients without particularly stereotypical boundaries." Fashion is a very personal thing there. "Analysis" and "reflection" are the key words of the Royal Academy of Fashion Arts in Antwerp. Everyone who comes here is led to look inward. This is perhaps the source of DIDU's energy for self-breakthrough and strong personality.
> DIDU Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
In October 2022, Dudi moved from Shanghai to Paris. War, closed borders, stagnant cultural exchanges ...... It is a world shrouded in frustration. With his new collection, Dudi wanted to express the feeling of being in Paris and the cultural encounters he encountered.
Lci c'est le paradis "Here, is paradise" - the prototype of DIDU 23AW is emerging. The origin of this concept was a bit of a serendipitous surprise. One day when he first arrived in Paris, Dudi was attracted by a spray-painted graffiti on the road, which read: ici c'est le paradis, this is paradise. The creator of the graffiti played with words, erasing the words le and ad to make ici c'est paris (This is Paris).
> DIDU Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
The graffiti triggered Dudi's feelings. When I came to Paris, I always saw people sleeping on the streets, strikes, racial conflicts, disparities between rich and poor ...... like a gorgeous robe, crawling with lice. "There is no perfect system or society in the world. There is very little we can do as individuals in a collapsing world. What we ordinary people can do is to dissolve hatred and injustice with love, so 'here is heaven' means that as long as I am here, I am in heaven, but there is not only beauty here, learn to see everything with a normal heart. I still want to use the language of costumes and go about creating dreams for everyone." Dudi explained.
Compared with previous seasons, DIDU's new collection adds more sporty elements and also tends to be more everyday and practical in overall matching. In terms of detailing, the new season combines elegant ballet practice wear with Chinese cheongsam elements representing 1920s modern Shanghai, presenting a novel wearing style.
> DIDU Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
The sharp, clean, and bold silhouette continues at 23AW. Empowering women's bodies has always been engraved in DIDU's DNA. In the recently concluded Paris Fashion Week, DIDU invited plus-size models and vegetarians to present diverse bodies in the Presentation, hoping that more people can get rid of their anxiety about their bodies.
After three years, Chinese fashion power is once again appearing on a large scale at the four major fashion weeks, and more and more Chinese designer brands are about to return to the international market, which will certainly bring a new round of fierce competition and pressure, but also inspire more creativity. As Doody says, "China is gaining momentum. China's cultural output and its voice in the fashion world should not just be in terms of purchasing power, but more designers need to show their ability and let more and more people see the talent of Chinese designers. In the three years of the epidemic, Chinese designers have basically released new works in Shanghai and have accumulated a lot of power that wants to explode. We take this experience and ability to participate in international fashion weeks at this time, but also a good cultural output!"
RUOHAN, the invisible form
On March 7, the fifth day after the show, Ruo Han had long returned to the routine of getting up at 6:00 and going to bed at 23:00. So regular that it seems to be with
The Paris Fashion Week around us seems to be a bit detached. Crossing two time zones, we tried to explore the vitality of RUOHAN from a dialogue.
> RUOHAN Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
Just over five months have passed since RUOHAN first appeared on Paris Fashion Week. Growth and calmness have been condensed in the time scale of half a year. At that time, under the barrier of the epidemic, Ruohan, who was alone with 6 suitcases of clothes, returned to Paris like a dream, full of the excitement of coming out and the dream come true.
Once again in Paris, Ruo Han was no longer alone. With a team along with her, she was more prepared, comfortable and confident to erase her pre-show nervousness. The day she landed in Paris, Ruo Han wrote in her diary what she felt at that moment: "Some people who are not related to each other, because of a seemingly meaningless thing, have some fourth kind of emotion like affection and like love. It is a purely appreciative and down-to-earth feeling."
Rewind to March 2nd, Palais de Tokyo, RUOHAN 23AW waiting to be ready.
> RUOHAN Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
A huge piece of fabric with a hollowed-out square center draped over the show, dividing the front and backstage. RUOHAN uses the simplest visual language to recreate the concept of a square shape that has been cut, pieced, changed and even extended to create a garment, and thus begins to discern and explore the transformation and dependence of the invisible and the tangible.
Two years and four seasons have passed, and the next development point of the brand is approaching. Back to the beginning, RUOHAN took time as the macro inspiration, hoping to create a timeless closet for contemporary women, which can transcend age, blur the years, and still be classic and practical five or ten years later. But eternity is not an entity and cannot be measured. So when embarking on the new collection, Ruo Han began to try to make a new interpretation of timeless.
In the process of exploring how to materialize timeless, Ruo Han came up with the idea of clay. Clay is a soil, a vessel, and a source of life. It can be shaped into various forms, and therefore, it cannot be described by a single form, it is an invisible form, just like eternity.
> RUOHAN Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
How can this concept be transferred in the simplest visual language? The almost perfect "square" is RUOHAN's answer: because people give rules to things, the invisible becomes tangible, and with the world's square and circle, there is the mutual transformation and dependence of the two.
So in the new collection, the square element can be seen from the cut of the collar and cuffs to the knitting method. The colors also start from the square, looking for colors with different emotional links seen from the square perspective. Red, blue-gray-green, light floral gray - colors not found in RUOHAN's color spectrum - jumped out of the 23AW collection.
One day after the show, in a place far away from the city of Paris by the Seine River, the famous fashion magazine "W" shot a group photo of Chinese designers. Being there, Ruo Han was in a trance, it was a kind of magic and reality. Being in this wave and working with more designers to form the aesthetic power of Chinese design was certainly exciting and inspiring for Ruo Han. It was a windy day in Paris that day, and Ruo Han's thoughts drifted far away, remembering the photo of Issey Miyake, Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto in Paris in the 1980s. The times were so close and so far away.
> RUOHAN Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
While Ruo Han in life is extremely easy to empathize with people, the environment and words, Ruo Han, the main manager, needs to enter the business and rational side. Sensibility and order coexist in her body. Ruohan laughs and says that the biggest difference between a designer and an artist is perhaps in controlling emotions and switching personalities.
In the end, we talk about the future of RUOHAN. This is not always an easy topic to answer. Everything is just beginning. Ruohan expects to make the brand leave a strong mark in the hearts of everyone who grows up with it, and become a meaningful stage in each other's lives. The continuity of this emotion is the meaning and value that Ruohan is looking for for RUOHAN.
SHANGXIA, Trio of Birds of Prey
SHANG XIA has been committed to creating a uniquely inherited Chinese lifestyle through innovative design, "drawing the magic of culture, not the figurative form, and applying it to contemporary times, which is the true meaning of inherited tradition. In this process, we hope the team is both to swim in the ocean of Chinese culture to sediment, but also to have the courage to jump out." SHANG XIA co-founder Jiang Qiong'er has said. From another perspective, it can be said that it is due to the accumulation of the past decade or so that SHANG XIA today dares to boldly invite and embrace the new generation of avant-garde and pioneering designers.
> SHANG XIA Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
Li Yang, a post-85 Chinese designer, specializes in interpreting dark aesthetics, metal punk, gothic culture, and performance art are all sources of inspiration, and he has earned a place in the fashion industry by putting a distinctive personal label on his work with his unique perspective. After his appointment as the new creative director of SHANG XIA, he was once a hot spot in the industry because of the contrast between his personal pioneering style and the brand's traditional oriental aesthetic. The addition of Li Yang is not limited to Chinese style and craft cultural heritage, but focuses more on women's issues in a broad sense, hoping to make SHANG XIA show a more fashionable and youthful style.
SHANG XIA's Fall/Winter 2023 collection is themed "Birds of Prey Trio", further exploring the diversity of contrasting and harmonious styles. The collection is inspired by French artist Céleste Boursier-Mougenot's installation "This Place is in Your Ears", an experimental music piece that is composed in a way that resembles a "manipulated free arrangement". Various musical instruments are placed on the floor, food is scattered around them, and the music generated by birds plucking the strings as they forage for food surrounds the entire gallery. "I was very moved by this scene; the image of the flying bird is rooted in Chinese-style romance and has always been seen as a symbol of freedom and a representation of empowered femininity." Li Yang said.
> SHANG XIA Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
Inspired by "This Place is for Ears", the entire stage was dominated by four amplifiers and an electric guitar, with live rock music played by musician David Simpson. The black dress with thin straps, the tight dress with cut-out waist and the slim knitted shirt, together with the bubble-soled basketball shoes, "sophistication" and "rock and roll" are both opposed and united at the same time. In the fabric, facecloth wool and fluid polyester fused together; light silk and ribbed knitting combined together; double-sided cashmere and metal beading inlaid together ...... brand from "top" and "bottom "The brand has completed another exploration and extension of the diversified core.
In terms of design, Oriental minimalism is the main focus. A few shapes feature embroidered birds, and the feathers carved on the garments are like birds ready to fly, interpreting the ambition and tension of people seeking their aspirations. To create a "look-alike" effect, a cocoon silhouette was used for the cut of the coats, referencing the aerodynamic posture of birds in flight. A loose coat of seahorse hair and a half black skirt mimicked the state of the bird's feathers and long tail. The silhouette of a swallow gliding in jacquard cashmere signifies the message of freedom and flight. Li Yang also drew inspiration for the jacket from a bird's eye view of the Chinese landscape created by artist Wu Ji-tsung, presenting a natural ecological scene like mountains and water.
> SHANG XIA Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
Today, we are witnessing the return of Chinese cultural confidence and the rise of trendy culture among the younger generation. How to achieve an oriental luxury brand with Chinese culture as the core spirit in a contemporary way is an opportunity, but also a challenge for SHANG XIA.
UMA WANG: Zen and deconstruction
"It's great to have her back in Paris." This is what Ellie Pithers, contributing editor of VOGUE UK, said about Uma Wang founder Juice Wang's performance this Paris Fashion Week after the presentation of Uma Wang's Fall/Winter 2023 collection.
> UMA WANG Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
One of the first Chinese faces to appear on the international fashion scene, Uma Wang founded her eponymous label in 2005. Inspired by traditional philosophy, she likes to tell stories through fabrics, and her first collection was made of cashmere, a simple fabric that can be used to express the tension of fashion. The first thing that comes to mind when you think of cashmere is the basic wool sweater, but Wang wants to use the traditional fabric to try various experiments and pioneering techniques to break the solidified perception of this material.
The concept of "fabric before design" has always been Wang Ju's philosophy. In her works, you can't see any dazzling single product, nor can you find any elements that follow the trend. From silk, linen, lace to velvet and cashmere, the soul of her works comes from the fabrics. She is good at using different weaving, printing and dyeing, three-dimensional cutting and various treatments such as burning and laser to tell different stories. The dark and antique tone, washed and spontaneous dyeing, brush-written era stamps, and hangtags dyed with tea leaves create an isolated Zen world that only belongs to Uma Wang.
> UMA WANG Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
For this season's Paris Fashion Week, Wang Ju presented a number of wool blends, furs and denim pieces. Nature permeated the oversized double-breasted coats, skinny vests and slouchy knitted dresses, with a raw flair in the textures. "I like to start with fabric because it best reflects the emotional part of the design." For the Fall/Winter 2023 collection, Wang Ju combines faux fur with coated linen for the first time. "It's an emotional expression of Uma Wang, something shabby, something from the vintage market, and I put all the ideas together."
Influenced by contemporary art in London, Wang Ju specializes in combining Gothic and Art Deco styles and has a habit of blending diverse materials, dyeing techniques, oversized silhouettes and Chinese prints in her designs. The metal collar, a key element throughout the season, wrapped around the model's neck added a touch of mystery to the fashion. "This one was inspired by the ancient cave paintings in Italy, where the figures on the portraits all carry their own golden halo and overflow with a sense of solemnity that touched me deeply." Wang Ju said. The resulting sense of sacredness created is combined with a large heterosexual silhouette that is mysterious and interesting.
> UMA WANG Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
In Wang Ju's eyes, it is more important to be comfortable than the brand and value of the fashion. Because the word "comfort" is really hard to come by, and it means the designer has to put more effort behind it. She always believes that wearability and functionality are the core values of a product, and UMA WANG's Fall/Winter 2023 collection is a breakthrough in the boundaries of clothing through repeated experiments in craftsmanship and silhouette. Her unique, cool style seems to transcend the times, exuding both oriental and avant-garde charm, without arrogance or impatience and with a quiet dignity.
CALVINLUO, self-awareness
> CALVINLUO Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
CALVINLUO's previous collections have always embodied the importance and pursuit of self and individuality, as well as the boldness to experiment with new styles. After a three-year absence, CALVINLUO returns to the Paris runway for the first time with an exploration of "balance". Punk poetess Patti Smith once said that in art and dreams, you can be wild and unrestrained; in life and reality, you should remain balanced and secretive. This viewpoint, like a mirror, reflects the thoughts of the brand founder Luo Yucheng in his fashion creation. He believes that in life, it is necessary to have both the wings to let your creativity fly and also the flight to help reality.
> CALVINLUO Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
The album cover of Patti Smith, shot by photographer Robert Mapplethorpe in the 1970s, further inspired the brand's founder, Luo Yucheng, to create the new season. "In the photo, the neutral shirt and suit look, loosely interpreted by Patti Smith, takes on a confident and determined aspect, bringing an overwhelming spiritual appeal that is not only a reflection of the power of women in the 70s, but also a modern energy that we all need to draw on today." Luo Yucheng said.
In CALVINLUO's Fall/Winter 2023 collection, Luo Yucheng attempts to combine softness and resonance through a combination of fabrics, craftsmanship and silhouettes. Every seemingly casual pleat and patchwork seems to convey a metaphor about femininity, and CALVINLUO's signature black suits, along with the bloom-like pleats created by taffeta, bring together the toughness and softness of women, through knitted fabrics. The roses, decorated with 3D printing, beadwork, sequins and hand hooking, appear discreetly on the bodice, hem and pant legs, where they seem to frame the fleeting beauty.
> CALVINLUO Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
"In fashion design, it seems that repetition is always avoided, and in this latest design, it becomes a creative approach that adds an unexpected twist to everyday dressing." Luo Yucheng said. The combination of beading and knitting techniques on T-shirts, suit lapels and pants creates a new decorative effect through a regular arrangement of combinations. Repeated overlays on accessories break up the dullness of the regular look, with double-layered belts tied to faux two-piece shirt-style dresses; multi-layered twisted belt elements appearing at the ankle of square-toed boots; and rectangular lace-ups adorning the uppers of Louboutins and heels, presenting a sense of order. The CALVINLUO Fall/Winter 2023 collection showcased both menswear and womenswear, with some seemingly unconventional experiments and breakthroughs that resulted in new styles and classics. In menswear, black and white striped inner wear is wrapped around a blazer, a playful half-body skirt hangs backwards over blazer pants; a bodice shaped strapless top is paired with wide leg casual pants; a corset style white knit shirt is paired with a crossbody bag, presenting a masculine and sexy side. And in women's wear, the styling design of short inside and long outside and overlapping inside and outside allows the advantages of women's body to be shown, while bringing a sense of competence and confidence. The shoulder line, which highlights masculinity, is also dismantled and reorganized to express the casual side of women's suits. This presentation seems to be a search for a certain sense of balance, but in reality it is an exploration of unisex style.
> CALVINLUO Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
Nowadays, fashion is no longer a single definition, but a medium for expressing the thoughts and lifestyles of a new generation of young people. Luo Yucheng is very good at creating a unique personality, flair and beauty of this era through his unconventional design language and styling. "In my opinion, beauty should not be limited by region, race or gender. Returning to Patti Smith's contrast between dream and reality, everyone has their own two sides of one, and the unrestrained and hidden seem to be in opposition, but in fact they help us to complete the dialogue with ourselves." Luo Yucheng said.
> DAWEI Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
For designer Sun Dawei, Paris is his "home base". As a young man, he studied here, won awards here, and worked with John Galliano; as a young man, he became the first Chinese-American design director invited by a French fashion house for 100 years, becoming the "Light of Chinese"; some years ago, he left his job at other brands to focus on creating his own brand here. Some years ago, he left his job at other brands to focus on creating his own eponymous brand here ...... remember the first interview with Sun Dawei, he said: "I have lived in Paris for 18 years, so the meaning of Paris to me is different. If I walk the show, it must start from Paris."
And this season, is Dawei's fifth season of offline walking in Paris Fashion Week. Unlike other shows where the music is high and cold, DAWEI's music this season is happy and relaxed at the beginning. Sun Dawei used the clothes of the new season to tell the story of his own anxiety in the three years of the epidemic, from the anxiety of trying on clothes in different places to the calmness of facing it, and then the joy of ushering in a new hope after everything has passed. Just like what he expressed in the theme of the new season, "the curtain starts" - it is the final chapter of the glorious past and the beginning of a new era.
> DAWEI Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
Looking back to the past to better prepare for the future. DAWEI looks for inspiration from the last court of the past, "We have not personally experienced the nineteenth century, but I think the dark tide in the large and opulent palace, under the impact of the steam engine, the wind of extravagance is receding, elegance still exists; despondency gradually manifested, hope wild growth." For the new season, there are no prints unique to DAWEI's previous designs, and no complicated patterns. The pure black color scheme in the opening represents the past, and in the whole set of LOOK, the hand-sewn sun pleating process adds a solemn dimension to the collection, with pleats like winding rivers, coiled either horizontally or vertically on top of the hem and skirt, and the scattered lines, with the undulation of the body, carelessly depict the elegant curves. Next came clean and fresh beige, brown checkered green with autumnal ridge-like full of vitality, followed by the deep green of ripening plants, the grass green of budding shoots, the bright sky blue, the leaping eggplant purple and the tender goose yellow ...... Although it is an autumn-winter collection, it is filled with the joy of spring. The music turns to a lighter tempo at this time, and is a great way to compose a moving scene with splashes of color. One immediately realizes that this is not a nostalgic performance celebrating the past. Between the end of the curtain and the beginning of the curtain, under the tone of the palace, there is a breath of newness.
> DAWEI Fall/Winter 2023 Collection V
The stars are changing, everything is new, the hourglass is silent, and time is moving on. This is the last court, the grandness wrapped in the impatient restlessness, solemnity contains the longing to be released. Move from the gorgeous court to the city of traffic, put down the hand twisting the skirt, drop the tiptoe, take off the heavy armor, lightly loaded, return to the daily life, and move forward.
Article Source:艺术与设计
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