From June 17 to June 19, the first season of Digital Shanghai Fashion Week opened. The theme of this season is "The Future of Builders", echoing last season's "Future Visionaries", which implies the exploration from "seeing" to "doing". This season, the theme of Shanghai Fashion Week is "The Future of Builders". Although the road ahead is not smooth, but the "builders" never wavered in their determination to go forward, the changes brought about by the epidemic will also accelerate the pace of digital empowerment of the platform.
If two years ago, Shanghai Fashion Week was first involved in the "cloud" conference is a change in the launch vehicle, then this first season of Shanghai Digital Fashion Week is a combination of carrier, ecology, concept, perception, including a new presentation. With digital technology, how do the brands participating in Shanghai Fashion Week take innovative steps in the field of virtual fashion? How do they use design to "meet the future"? This issue's feature article is for you.
TUYUE: Expressing Ideas through Clothing
Due to traditional family values, Yang Ying Ying's father wanted her to work in a stable job, and the creation of a clothing brand once led to a cold war with her father. Despite the lack of support from her family, TUYUE was born. The name of the brand "Tu Yue TUYUE" is the traditional Chinese name for December, which is the last month of the year, the month to welcome the new year, very similar to the psychological state of Yang Ying Ying when she founded the brand, in her own words, "a feeling of being alive to death", in her own words, it is "a feeling of life after death". In the process of brand growth, Yang Ying Ying has encountered many problems, such as the release of works in the online store was plagiarized, the audience does not match, these difficulties make Yang Ying Ying once in a difficult situation, "at that time I think I have nothing to export, every thing is very hard to do, so I went to continue studying. Studying at the Central Academy of Experimental Art brought me a lot of new ways of thinking, and the shift in thinking made the old problems naturally cease to exist." Yang Yingying recalls, "Later on, it became clear that actually having been a design brand on an online store was also an experiment, a process of trial and error. The most interesting thing for me is to keep on going."
Since then, Tu Yue TUYUE's designs have always expressed art experimentally. Yang Ying Ying introduces, "It's different to design with a purely artistic mindset and to design with a design mindset. My initial thinking was more towards pure art, but after more than ten years, these two thoughts are gradually integrated. Clothes are actually a kind of carrier, which is the final result of these thoughts. In each show, I will add many storytelling art installations, and I will first think about what kind of story I want to tell and how to express this story artistically, while the clothes are just a part of telling this story."
The Fall/Winter 2022 collection tells the story of "TO MOON Beautiful New World," a collection that relates to the themes of the previous three seasons, forming a complete story of "survivorship. "Beauvoir once mentioned a concept called 'serious world', which means that the world we live in is like a playground with established rules, and some people will take the established values and authority as their own choice. The 'TOMOON Beautiful New World' is the opposite of this concept. I want to construct a world without the limitation of rules, where there can be vivid and lively life, just like living on the moon." In the new season's design, Yang Ying Ying still emphasizes the new Chinese style, "There is a group of female intellectuals in China, those women we call 'sir' are our muse when we do the new Chinese style. I think when one's thoughts or concerns are getting deeper and deeper, and the points of concern are extending inward, then that person will gradually de-genderize." So, the new Chinese style here is not the use of many traditional Chinese clothing elements, such as, for example, prints, coils and buttons, embroidery and so on. Rather, it is some expression of Chinese charm, a more subtle way of expressing a more Chinese design, expressing the mood of Chinese aesthetics. "In the new season's design, we used some Western cuts and silhouettes, but after designing the final garment presentation looks like it has an oriental charm." Yang Ying Ying said, "This season we use a material called 'sea wool', which is a hard-to-degrade oyster shell ground into powder and technically processed into wool, and finally made into knitted clothing, to emphasize the concept of sustainable fashion. "
YES BY YESIR: The "light" release of "light" fashion
Born in 2013, YES BY YESIR brand was founded by designer Ye Qian, and has become one of the representative Chinese original light luxury designer brands.
Since its establishment, YES BY YESIR has always been running through the brand concept of minimalism and contemporaryism, insisting on forging a modern and artistic Chinese new elegant aesthetic for oriental women. The brand name "YES BY YESIR" stands for "optimism to the future". This season's launch is the first show of the brand's 8th anniversary, taking the meaning of "light" from the brand's first "light dress" series, and presenting the designer's "light" form of digital fashion launch. The "light" concept fashion collection was presented in the form of a digital fashion release.
As the creative director of YES BY YESIR, Ye Qian, a fashion designer and film director, tries to activate the art of fashion with a new perspective, turning the creation of fashion from stitch to stitch into the creation of a film frame by frame, giving YES BY YESIR a "film narrative-like" theme of fashion collection expression: let The past, present and future inspirations converge in the YES BY YESIR show, presenting a contemporary fashion story with a distinctive concept each season.
Talking about this season's theme "lie flat", Ye Qian said that this season's design will give a new definition to the Chinese word "lie" with "body fashion". In a crowd of highly involute domestic designer clothing industry, YBY with its own characteristics and individual expression has its own rhythm and path, returning to the essence of fashion, refusing to follow blindly. In terms of fabric selection, the brand's exclusive custom-made fabrics are gorgeous and textured: rose and fruit green dress fabrics, black and white puzzle fabrics, three-dimensional Y jacquard fabrics, etc. There are also eye-catching YBY art symbols of circular printed fabrics on down jackets, handbags, leather belts and knitted suits, presenting a distinctive YBY urban modernity. One can't help but think of what Yohji Yamamoto said before: "Good clothes can be felt when you touch them."
Private Policy: the attitude of young designers
As designers and young people, Li Haoran and Qu Siying always tell the young people's thoughts about the world with their designs, and clothing is not just a piece of clothing or a pattern in their eyes, but a way of expression and a channel to voice out. "When my partner Qu Siying and I first graduated, we felt that there were no clothes that represented the opinions of young people at the time, so we created Private Policy, and every season since then we have chosen a topic that we think should be discussed at the moment as the theme for the season." We feel that everyone can create their own rules, so the designs of Private Policy will be more 'genderless'. We want to let people choose the clothes, not let the clothes restrict the gender, and that's what we've been focusing on."
In addition to the current social hotspots and "genderless" fashion, "sustainability" is also an issue that Li Haoran and Qu Siying have been focusing on, and when they discovered the great contribution of fungi to sustainability, they decided to use it as the theme for the new season. The theme of the collection is "Fungi World". One is the 3D metallic mushroom print on T-shirts and different clothes. The combination of the mushroom form and the 3D metallic material will produce a more vivid and design result, which is the most tangible expression of the design. In addition, in the fall/winter 2022 collection, we have used a lot of mohair and lambswool materials, which are designed to look like white, dense mycelium, and adding these elements to the clothes is another expression of fungi.
In addition, the brand's classic elements of "soft strap harness" and diamond check also continued into this season's design. In the new season's sweatshirt and shirt designs, the soft strap is designed to be more like a vest, a two-in-one garment. The rhombus check, which evolved from the checkerboard element that can be seen everywhere in daily life, has been used in the design from the spring/summer 2017 collection. In the latest season, the rhombus pattern was enlarged and used as a patchwork between mohair and lambswool, also incorporating this season's fungal inspiration. And in this season, PrivatePolicy launched the first shoe made of eva material, which can achieve zero waste. The shoes are shaped like shoe covers, which are inspired by the shoe covers that need to be worn when studying fungi in the lab.
Talking about the impact of the epidemic, Li Haoran said, "Although the live walk is an important and atmospheric ritual, I think releasing the work online will make it easier for more people to see the pieces. With the epidemic, this is an inevitable trend, and we are always looking for new breakthroughs. I think new brands should have more new forms of presentation, and the traditional show should not be the only way for designers to show their work."
AWAYLEE: Like her
In the eyes of many fashionable people who wear independent designer brands, the impression of romantic, playful and girly shapes could not escape the name Awaylee at one time. Since the birth of the brand in 2012, AWAYLEE has been focusing on women's inner growth, upholding the style of innocence and romance, and presenting the aesthetics of clothes with quiet water flowing deep.
For this season's Shanghai Fashion Week, AWAYLEE's 22/23AW Fall/Winter collection is titled: "Be Like Her". Design director Yang Le was inspired by her own mother. In Yang Le's eyes, her mother has always been gentle and subdued. Since her childhood, her mother has been Yang Le's closest confidante, giving her the warmest love and understanding. But before she became a mother and a wife, she was also a naive and romantic girl, full of fantasies, right? With this curiosity, Yang Le began to explore her mother's teenage years.
Yang Le's mother grew up in a traditional and harmonious family, and was the most beloved youngest daughter in the family. She was quiet and wise, with a girl's unique sensitivity. As a student, her mother was an exemplary student with excellent academic performance; apart from her studies, her family and the times also shaped her delicate sense of aesthetics. When she grew up, she became a strict and kind medical worker; at a ball, she met the love of her life.
In the AWAYLEE22AW collection, Yang Le tries to trace the bright era of her mother's teenage style through her mother's perspective. Through the combination of vintage design and modern elements, the evolution of fashion is explored, reinterpreting the classic style of the last chapter at the end of the last century. In the process of creating the collection, Yang Le gradually realized that the years and experiences did not waste her mother's "girl" mind, she was still the delicate, elegant little girl who would pamper herself in front of her lover. The passage of time did not take away the freedom and loveliness of her mother, it only precipitated more luster and thickness to her life.
In this season, Yang Le gives the design of women's experience that contains wisdom and experience, and conveys the gentle power of "like her" with fashion aesthetics.
RICO LEE: Function first, then fashion
As the first local outdoor brand to land at Shanghai Fashion Week, RICO LEE has been insisting on making clothes that are both functional and fashionable. When I realized this trend in 2013 and raised my voice to the market, there was little attention paid to outdoor brands. Then around 2016, functional outdoor clothing gradually became integrated with fashion and urban living. More and more luxury and fashion brands would make some connection with the outdoors, such as having an outdoor line or designing some outdoor capsule collections. In turn, outdoor has been influenced by these brands and continues to evolve towards a more trendy and lifestyle approach."
Even though the fashionability and trendiness of outdoor clothing has attracted a lot of attention, Li Weigang has always emphasized the functionality of its design: "Functions like windproof, waterproof and breathable, which are very common nowadays, were first seen in outdoor clothing. The biggest difference between outdoor clothing and other clothing is that outdoor clothing is technology and function first, and then fashion. When climbing snowy mountains above 5km in altitude; when in the middle of extreme harsh environments; when exploring in unknown environments ...... outdoor clothing needs to be powerful and functional in order to provide us with protection." Designing clothes that use good materials, patterns and techniques, but also have strong functionality and can bring aesthetic enjoyment to consumers is what Li Weigang has always demanded of himself.
The theme of RICO LEE's new fall/winter collection is a glacial journey in the north, bringing us an adventure on top of the ice fields. "Outdoor and urban actually have an antagonistic relationship from a certain point of view, and our new collection is designed to allow people to escape from the busy urban life for a short time. The story starts with an adventure from the city, and the overall design is full of modernity; on the way to the adventure, we meet villages and aborigines, and are touched by the local customs and customs, so the design has a sense of ethnicity; then we go deep into the glacier and are shocked by the sacredness of nature, and hope that the natural environment and wildlife will be protected, so the design will have an iceberg texture and many fur elements; finally, we are touched by the ice field Pink haze and moved, clothing began to appear warm tones. What we see and hear during the expedition is reflected in the new season's clothes with design techniques." Li Weigang speaks.
In order to echo the theme of the new season glacier, Li Weigang designed a translucent down jacket, using the material and form of down jacket to present the translucent blue and white of the glacier. At the same time, this down jacket is very light, and also windproof and waterproof. While satisfying functionality, it gives emotional properties to this garment, so that people can associate with glaciers when they see it. Using technology to express beauty is what Li Weigang often refers to as "beautiful technology".
Article Source:艺术与设计
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