VALENTINO: Let the flowers bloom in the white space

张玲玲

2023-01-18 09:59:00

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"Forever Valentino" (Forever Valentino) exhibition site


From October 28, 2022 to April 1, 2023, the exhibition "Forever Valentino" is on view at the M7 Design and Culture Center in Doha, Qatar. This is VALENTINO's largest exhibition to date, led by VALENTINO Creative Director Pierpaolo Piccioli, with the participation of curator Massimiliano Gioni and British fashion critic Alexander Fury. The exhibition presents a fashion gallery that spans the brand's past and present. The exhibition's surreal three-dimensional creations build a bridge between Valentino Garavani's masterpieces and Bill Paolo Piccioli's "reinterpretations". The deeply restored scenes of the city of Rome and the dreamy images of VALENTINO's private space on site made people feel as if they were returning to Rome, the "Eternal City" where the story began, experiencing a romantic and pure "Journey of Imaginative Art", opening a wonderful dialogue between the past and the present, classical and new. A wonderful dialogue between past and present, classical and new trend.


The allure of red

In 1959, Valentino Garavani established his own label in Rome and launched his first collection in red, with the first red dress "Fiesta" decorated with red flowers, thus unveiling the "RossoValentino "RossoValentino

Rosso, the Italian word for "red", is a color that symbolizes optimism, good luck, richness, power, passion and love. The 34 pieces of "Rosso Valentino" from different periods in the "A Palazzo" showroom are a dialogue between the four masters of the color red and the sources of inspiration that have inspired the creativity of each of the designers. In the center of the exhibition hall, a sculpture in the middle of VALENTINO's Roman workshop is reproduced, as if guarded by a group of female warriors in red dresses, with the same "sky" above their heads and a poetic holy light emanating from all around. The classic works from different periods in the brand's historical archives stand proudly on it, as if they have been washed away by the fragile beauty of the years.

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"Forever Valentino" (Forever Valentino) exhibition site


Opposite the Fiesta is the Fiesta-inspired Fall/Winter 2022 dress created by Bill Paolo Piccioli. The red dress is a reverberation between the two, a deep emotional connection and spiritual communication. The "red" of the two generations of fashion masters forms a dialogue between different times and spaces, which is also the resonance and convergence of ideas from different art creators.
In VALENTINO, color is a tool to serve women and the Renaissance. In a series of past designs, VALENTINO has used "red" as a core color, either elegantly, passionately, exuberantly, or intensely ...... through different ways of design and interpretation of different faces, to give countless possibilities to the exciting red. It has been described as "the triumph of red", creating a new classic comparable to black and white.


The poetry of haute couture
The "Des Ateliers" showroom is a reproduction of a pure white "Haute Couture workshop". Inside, traditional craftsmanship meets contemporary art. "Even the floor here is white." Valentino Garavani explains, "The reason is simple: if a needle falls on the floor, you can quickly find it." In this pure white space, the 31 high-fashion pieces seem to run through VALENTINO's entire lifespan, both grand and hidden, both ordinary and unique.

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VALENTINO's studio in Piazza Minianelli


White is also the color of paper, and any amazing couture actually starts from a draft on a piece of white paper; white is the color of VALENTINO's work clothes through two generations of tailors; white is also the key color of VALENTINO, such as Valentino Garavani's famous 1968 "Collezione Bianca" haute couture collection in 1968.
The Haute Couture atelier in Rome is the soul of VALENTINO and the home of the brand. Under the creative guidance of successive designers, a unique haute couture piece that portrays the core spirit of the brand and upholds its values is born here. Each Haute Couture piece is the work of all the artisans, each with a different special talent, who carve out unique pieces in the workshop. They use intricate craftsmanship to express the culture, interests and inspiration of the collector, conveying love, tradition and the story behind the creator. "Haute Couture is a ritual, it's a spirit." Bill Paul Piccioli elaborates, "Haute Couture means caring, it means humanity. I love the people behind Haute Couture, the care and love they put into each piece, the poetry of spending months working on the same garment."
The Haute Couture collection is not just a clothing product, but a work of art created by the fashion designers and Haute Couture artisans, while serving as a bridge between everyday life and the world of fantasy. In the Spring/Summer 2021 Haute Couture collection, Bill Paul Piccioli breaks away from the traditional impression of Haute Couture by cutting down on the complexity and simplifying, allowing the flourishing flowers to bloom in the white space, with less glamour and exaggerated dramatic effects than before, emphasizing beautiful and elegant lines and imposing silhouettes, stripping away the elaborate decorations and prints, and leaning more towards daily wear and dress, a more essential purity.


Legacy and Reconstruction
The "Capriccio Romano" showroom in black and white evokes a "Rome" of environment and experience, with 40 black and white couture dresses. As part of fashion, culture and Roman history, VALENTINO's collection and fitting salon, Piazza Mignanelli, seems to be embedded in the city of Rome and the brand's long history.
The "Di.vas" gallery brings together women's interpretations of VALENTINO from all periods. The gorgeous dresses worn by Julia Roberts, Jennifer Lopez and Zendaya contrasted with the photos of historical celebrities displayed around them.

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VALENTINO Fall/Winter 2022-2023 High Definition Collection


More stunning pieces are shown here: the lace wedding dress worn by Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis on her wedding day in 1968 when she married the King of the Boats; the white chiffon dress with ostrich feathers worn by Elizabeth Taylor at a movie premiere in 1961 ...... These pieces are a record of the world's perception of women and their changing role in society over VALENTINO's 60-year history. Such is the significance of fashion in social terms - it is a vehicle for recording the changes of the times.
Back in the 1960s, Valentino Garavani tried to show the power of women with tailoring and silhouettes. Bill Paolo Piccioli confessed: "In a way, Valentino Garavani was a provocateur of his time, embodying the new woman through silhouette and tailoring. I thought I'd do the same thing, try to define new ways of being female, try to define beauty and celebrate the uniqueness of each person."

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VALENTINO Fall/Winter 2022-2023 High Definition Collection


The "Parade" showroom presented two pink ready-to-wear pieces for Fall/Winter 2022. This special pink color appears as "one color for the whole collection" in the Fall/Winter 2022 ready-to-wear collection and becomes the new representative color of VALENTINO. Bill Paolo Piccioli expects people to look at pink itself with different eyes and perspectives. The "Cahiers De Defile" showroom also features other masterpieces by Bill Paolo Piccioli since 2016. With their exuberant colors, bold structures and exaggerated proportions, they represent Bill Paul Piccioli's fearless aesthetic proposition.
The "Roman Conversations" showroom brings together 60 colorful dresses, as in this year's Fall/Winter 2022 Haute Couture show in Rome. The stone steps of the Piazza di Spagna, a symbol of the brand's Roman DNA and the core of its skills, were also brought into the show. Here, "color" is not only the color of the dresses, but also the skin tones of the dolls. This is reflected in the creation of Bill Paolo Piccioli's Spring/Summer 2019 collection - he wanted to pay tribute to women of all colors and to complement them with a garden-like abundance of colors.
"Forever Valentino" slowly speaks of the brand's quest for the most passionate, glamorous and culturally symbolic "red" from its founder Valentino Garavani to Bill Paolo Piccioli. It also presents a new understanding and "reinterpretation" of beauty and women in the current context.


Article Source:艺术与设计

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